Jodhpur

 Terra Cotta artist in Pokhran

 Mother of terra cotta artist in Pokhran

 Girl at Sardar Market, Jodhpur

Sardar Market, Jodhpur

Sardar Market, Jodhpur

Sardar Markey, Jodhpur

 

Bangle seller, Sangar Market, Jodhpur

 

Sardar Market, Jodhpur

A family enjoys lassi at Shri Mishrilal Hotel

Mukul enjoys lassi at the Shri Mishrilal Hotel

Yesterday we drove to Jodhpur. Along the way, we stopped in Pokhran, a village known for its terra cotta pottery work. We stopped in at the home of one terra cotta artisan and his family. They demonstrated some of their techniques for us, and they did some beautiful work.

We arrived in Jodhpur in the afternoon, and checked into our extremely nice hotel, the Ajit Bhawan. At 5 pm, we went out on the town. The Hindu holiday of Diwali falls on the 17th, and people are busy  making preparations, buying sweets, fireworks, gifts, etc. So we went to the market in Jodhpur and just enjoyed the activity. It is somehow frenetic and laid back all at the same time. People are in a festive holiday spirit and all had smiles and hellos for us. It felt very much like the pre-Christmas shopping rush. Even with cars, motorbikes, and tuk-tuks speeding by and beeping, and trying to avoid  cows and pedestrians,  the locals seemed as interested in us as we were in them.  Mukul took us to the Shri Mishrilal Hotel to try their world famous lassi (a thick yogurt drink flavored with cardamom). At 17 rupees a glass ($1 US = 43 rupees) it is a place where all walks of life can converge to enjoy a tasty treat. We had a total of 5 glasses of lassi, 5 snacks (deep fried stuffed peppers), a dessert, and a bottled mineral water for only 153 rupees! We were the only tourists in the place, and we ended up providing entertainment for the good-natured locals.

Craig and I each had a massage at the hotel, which was quite nice. Then this morning we went on a Jeep safari.We saw some wildlife including black bucks and antelopes. Then we visited a Raika family's home. They keep goats and produce wool for sale. We then went to a weaving cooperative where rugs are woven on a loom (in a process known as "durry") out of cotton or wool. Our final stop was a Bishnoi village. We went to a family's home where preparatons were being made for Diwali. They had just made paintings on their walls to decorate for the holiday. The adult daughter of the household hand-made millet bread for us over a fire. Then her father performed a ritual called amalsabha, which included mixing a very small amount of opium with water and filtering it. We each took three sips of the resulting liquid, to seal our friendship. It was very interesting.

Diwali sales

 

Boy in a bangle cart

 

Diwali shopper

 

Diwali shoppers

 

Dinner at Ajit Bhawan

 

Jeep safari - giving some local women a ride

Raika family

 

Raika woman makes breakfast

 

Roopraj Durry carpets

 

Bishnoi woman who made millet bread for us

 

Bishnoi woman who made millet bread for us

 

Bishnoi man prepares for amalsabha ceremony

 

Bishnoi man after amalsabha ceremony

 

The Blue City, seen from Jodhpur Fort

Jodhpur Fort

Jodhpur Fort

This afternoon we went to Jodhpur Fort, which is perched on steep cliffs above the city. The architecture was amazing and there were many interesting museum pieces, including elaborate palanquins (for carrying important people), seats for riding elephants, elaborate baby cradles, armor, and weapons. Craig has been in his glory seeing all of these forts, but this will be the last one of the trip. He was not disappointed.

Then we went to Jaswant Thada, an architecturally interesting cenotaph. Before the sun set, we headed to Mandore Gardens, site of some amazing cenotaphs bedecked with intricate carvings. Langur monkeys roamed around the site, and we enjoyed the Hall of Heroes, where larger than life depictions of gods and folk heroes were hewn into rock.

Silver elephant seat

 

Mukul at Jodhpur Fort

 

Grand palanquin

Jodhpur Fort

 

View from Jodhpur Fort

Jodhpur Fort

 

Musician, Jodhpur Fort

 

Jodhpur Fort

Jodhpur Fort

Monkey, Mandore Gardens

 

Mandore Gardens

 

Mandore Gardens

Hall of Heroes

Dinner at Ajit Bhawan

We are really loving the people and sites of India. Everyone is always willing to initiate or return a smile or a hello. It is bittersweet that our trip will be over in just a few days.

Happy Diwali, all!