Sunday, July 14, 2013

4th of July in Guatemala

Steph and Aracely

We just returned from spending six wonderful days with Humberto and Paulina's family in Panajachel ,Guatemala. It had been a full year since our prior visit, which is far too long; the children grow quickly and we like to see them as often as possible.

The trip got off to an inauspicious start on the 4th of July. Our flight was at 8 am, and I meant to set our alarm for 3:45. But somehow I miscalculated in my head and set it for 4:45. We woke up and took our showers and got ready to go, only realizing that we were an hour late when it hit 5:45. I realized that we had meant to arrive at the airport by at least 6 o'clock. We immediately panicked and ran out the door. We were so flustered by this that Craig missed the exit on the drive to the airport. Luckily he was able to take the next one without losing much time. We arrived at Logan Airport at 6:30. Not too bad, considering. We had made up half an hour.

We had checked in and printed our boarding passes at home the previous night. But since we had a bag of presents for the kids that we needed to check, they made us re-check in at a kiosk. Craig was completely overheated due to the stressful morning, so much so that an airport employee suggested he go outside to get some air. As we were in the throes of a 6 day heat wave (over 90 degrees), we decided that wasn't the best idea.

There was a very short line at security and we made it through quickly. We had time to eat breakfast at the food court, and we got to our departure gate in plenty of time.

The flight was uneventful except for our seat mate, a pretty young woman from Germany who rested her bare toes on the top of my water bottle and then proceeded to spill a cup of Sprite on my lap. More bad luck.


We arrived in Miami and after a very short layover we were on our way to Guatemala City. When we landed, immigration went fairly quickly, but our checked bag seemed to be one of the last off the plane. Then we were delayed in a big customs line.


Luckily, after this point, things turned around for the better. Adrin, who had driven us several times before, was there to pick us up at the airport. The road was in good shape despite some intermittent rain, and we made it to Panajachel in under 3 hours.

When we arrived, it was just before 5 o'clock and it was pouring rain. Aracely was sitting in the office playing on the computer and she ran out to meet us. She greeted us with big hugs telling us how much she loved us and had missed us. At first glance it was remarkable how much she looked like Yoselin had at her age. Aracely was now almost 8 years old. She had grown taller and her hair was now a lot longer.  She also had a beautiful smile, showing off her adult teeth to us for the first time.

The kids' cousins Julisse, Andrik, and Neli came over with Eddy in tow. Eddy was such a little man! Humberto and Paulina arrived and we sat in the office chatting. Yoselin and Yasmin showed up, both looking much taller than they had last year. In fact they were almost as tall as Paulina now.The kids' cousin Rocio stopped in to say hello, and it was the first time we had seen her in about a year and a half.

Vanesa arrived in her uniform for tourism school, looking very professional and grown  up. Aracely was patiently waiting for gifts, and suggested several times to take our bags and go to our room to speed up the process.
Vanesa in her school uniform

When we did go to the room, we walked down the alleyway and passed through the bamboo gate. Humberto had installed paver stones leading to the house and guest rooms. Our room had an additional table and chair, and there were Mayan huipiles (embroidered blouses) being used as tablecloths. Each time we visit, Humberto and Paulina have always made more improvements to the property and the rooms. It is a very comfortable place to stay, and they now operate as a bed and breakfast with private en suites.

Yasmin and Yoselin had moved into one of the guest rooms since our last visit. Now only Aracely and Eddy slept in the main house with Paulina and Humberto. We got settled in and then headed over to the main house. The kids were gathered around the dining room table watching TV. The orange color of the walls had been changed to cream in the dining room. Paola got home from school and then all 6 kids were home together.

We had a very tasty dinner of chicken in a salsa sauce with rice, carrots, and squash. Aracely wrote us notes in Spanish and passed them to us across the table. Eddy even wrote "ABC" on a note, and he was very cuddly. He had just finished a year of English immersion preschool at Atitlan Multicultural Academy, where Aracely had just finished first grade. Humberto and Paulina told us that since finishing the school year, Eddy had not wanted to get up or eat at normal times, saying he was on his "vacaciones."


Humberto and Eddy

The older girls were still in school (their school year runs from January to October), so we needed to let them get to bed. Humberto told us that he and Paulina would be taking us, Aracely, and Eddy to Quetzaltenango tomorrow to visit an animal market.

The next morning, Adrin arrived in the van to pick us up at 6 am. We drove for two hours to San Francisco el Alto, a town on the outskirts of Quetzaltenango. Paulina and Humberto had come here by chicken bus before, but this was the first time for us and the kids.

We walked up a hill to a market area where people were selling cows, chickens, baby chicks, turkeys, pigs, cats, goats, dogs, and rabbits. Eddy and Aracely really enjoyed seeing the animals. We asked Aracely which she liked best and she said the dogs. We knew she had been wanting one since their lovable dog Terry had passed away last year. Aracely and Eddy got to feed some grass to a cow, and Eddy held on to a kitten on a leash.

Eddy, Humberto, Craig, Aracely, and Paulina at the animal market


Eddy and Aracely feeding a calf


We walked through the crowded alleyways of the market, being pushed and pulled by the throngs of locals in traditional dress. We always try not to be in the way, but here it was inevitable. We had to push our way through at the risk of being pushed over and trampled by the mobs.

We were pretty much the only gringos in the entire market. We know that thievery and pick-pocketing are common in these conditions, and we had tried to do our best defensively to prevent it.  I had two extra rechargeable camera batteries in a cargo pocket in my pants that buttoned securely. Craig had his backpack, but all that was in there was sunscreen, bottled water, and light jackets. Still, he carried it on his front when in the crowded areas.

Eddy with a puppy
Humberto bought us each a piece of cornbread cooked in corn husks, similarly to how tamales are cooked. It was very tasty. We then stopped at a little stand that was selling breakfast. We sat on wooden benches with locals at a table. We were served barley tea and black beans, rice, and tortillas. The locals smiled at us and wished us buen provecho.

After breakfast, we went into the San Francisco church.  San Francisco is the patron saint of many towns here; it seems that every town has a San Francisco church. This church was gorgeous and had nice silver work on the altar. There were  many carved religious icons which looked antique. While sitting in the pew admiring the architecture,  I realized that my cargo pocket was unbuttoned. My extra batteries were gone. It wasn't the end of the world, as I had more back at the house. I hoped that the one currently in my camera would last for the remainder of today's excursion.

I suppose it was possible that the batteries had fallen out somehow, but it didn't seem likely. The pocket had been securely buttoned. I thought back to some of the locals who had pushed against me in the narrow aisles of the market and wondered if someone had pick-pocketed me. At least we didn't have something far more important stolen. I felt disappointed. In all of our  trips to Guatemala (of which this was the 10th), we had never been robbed, though we had witnessed some pickpocketing at Easter time, and know full well that it goes on.

We went out into the church courtyard, which was quite nicely landscaped. We climbed up a set of narrow concrete spiral stairs up to the roof of the church. There was a beautiful view of the surrounding area, as well as a bell structure. We could see nearby Santa Maria volcano, and we could see the city of Quetzaltenango down below. We enjoyed the view, and then climbed back down the spiral stairs.
Craig and Aracely
Craig on the roof of Iglesia San Francisco

As we stood in front of the church, Eddy decided that he wanted to have his shoes shined. He stood with one foot at a time up on the shoe shiners' wooden box and got his shoes buffed a shiny black. Little man indeed!

We walked back out through the crowded market streets. An elderly woman in traditional dress brazenly reached right into Craig's empty pants pocket! He noticed and looked at her sternly. She proceeded to then try to open the zippers on his backpack as she retreated. Really?? We were now pretty much sure that the batteries hadn't just fallen out.

It wasn't the loss of batteries that bothered me. They were easy enough to replace at home. What bothered me was the resulting loss of innocence. We have such respect for the Mayans and their culture, and we try to travel in a sustainable manner. Yet poverty drives people to desperation and we are reminded that we need to be even more careful than we already try to be.

Adrin picked us up and drove us a short distance to Quetzaltenango, known locally as Xela (Shell-ah). Adrin dropped us off at the main square, which contained a beautiful park and some stunning colonial architecture. Humberto told us that Xela is a center of learning in Guatemala. It has universities and a laid-back feel, and was much safer than Guatemala City. The  park had Greek columns and a rotunda, and there had been a roof for shade before it was destroyed by an earthquake in 1902. We spent half an hour in the park and Eddy chased the pigeons.

Quetzaltenango
Paulina, Aracely, Craig, Humberto, and Eddy in Quetzaltenango

Adrin needed to be back in Pana by 2:30, so he picked us up after half an hour. The weather was absolutely gorgeous today. We were in the highlands and the family felt chilly, but it was refreshingly cool for Craig and myself. Most of us slept on the ride back to Pana.

Once we got back to the house, Yoselin and Yasmin were home from school, and Vanesa and Paola had recently left for school. Paulina offered us lunch but we were too full from the market. We ate an orange instead, while the kids ate. We gave the kids a Crayola activity book with markers. Aracely and Yoselin played with it, and they were quite concerned with doing it "right" (i.e. copying the colors exacty from teh packaging rather than trying to be creative about it. ) Part of the activity required them to draw something from their imaginations, and they faithfully did those parts last.

Their cousin Josue came over and played with Eddy. Aracely asked if I had brought my little netbook computer this time. I went to get it and they were looking at some photos and videos. Josue asked for "the one where Vanesa says hola". I knew exactly what he was talking about, I couldn't believe it. It had been over a year since he had even seen that video on my computer. He was talking about "Wiggles, a video compilations I had made from footage of the kids a few years ago. The kids watched it and were amused seeing their younger selves.

Humberto told us that they had to go to Vanesa's tourism school to pick up her report card. They invited us to go, and he, Paulina, Eddy, Aracely, Craig and I piled into a tuk-tuk. It was so crowded that Humberto called it a "chicken tuk-tuk" as a play on the ubiquitous and always overcrowded Central American chicken bus.

Chicken tuk-tuk: Aracely, Paulina, Eddy, Steph, Craig  Not pictured: Humberto and driver

Unlike the elementary school, Vanesa's school was not especially close to the house. The tuk-tuk drove us upstream and over the bridge to an area where we had never been before.
It dropped us off in front of the school gate. Humberto knocked on the door and we were let into the courtyard. Vanesa was standing on a balcony with some friends, and she waved to us.

The principal gave Vanesa's report card to Humberto and Paulina.  Vanesa came down to say hello. We didn't want to embarrass her in front of her peers, but she came over on her own accord and hugged us, which was very nice.  We said goodbye to Vanesa and left her to finish her day.

We walked all the way home, over the bridge and towards the market. Humberto pointed out the middle school that Paola attends, and we peeked into its darkened courtyard. The students had all gone home.

We almost didn't recognize the market at this time of day. We usually go with Paulina in the morning when it is full of sellers and shoppers. Now there were few stalls open. We stopped at one and Humberto and Paulina ordered us a warm chocolate rice drink (it tasted and had the texture of rice krispies which had been sitting in milk for a long time.) It was good - chocolatey, warm, and hearty. It seemed particularly Mayan to us.

They also ordered us each a tostada (hard tortilla covered with half guacamole and half salsa, with grated cheese on top) and we also shared a pupusa (soft tortilla with cheese inside, topped with cabbage). Each was purchased from a different stall. Aracely got fries from a chicken vendor. As is Guatemalan tradition, she slathered them in ketchup and mayo. She let us each try one and they were quite good.

Steph, Aracely, Eddy, Paulina, Craig
Snacks at the market

We walked back to the house, where Yasmin was coloring in the Crayola book. When she was done Humberto looked at it with Eddy and asked him questions about the pictures. He was able to identify objects in English, even knowing the word tractor when Humberto couldn't come up with it. Her named the colors and also identified a fish. Aracely played on the computer and they watched Wiggles , Take Care of All of My Children,  and New Years 2012, videos we had compiled from footage from past visits. It was bittersweet to see images of the kids' grandmother, who had passed away last August, and David, their young cousin who passed away last July.

We heard noise in the kitchen and realized that what we had eaten at the market was not dinner; it had been a snack. "We eat all the time," Humberto joked. But it's true. Luckily dinner was a bowl of homemade chicken soup which we were able to finish despite our earlier "snack". The family watched some TV and we went to bed at 10:30.

Steph and Eddy
On Saturday, Humberto was taking some clients out on a Mayan village tour. We were able to see him before he left for the day. Paulina made us scrambled eggs with black beans and cheese, along with coffee, for breakfast with Aracely and Eddy. As usual, it was delicious. The other girls eventually woke up and Josue came over and looked at pictures on the computer.

At 10:30, we headed to the market with Paulina, Paola, Aracely, and Eddy. We stopped at a barber shop to get Eddy's hair cut. Though he can be a very intense and energetic kid, he sat perfectly still for his haircut with clippers and a straight razor. After that we headed to the market and bought fresh fruits, vegetables, and supplies for a dinner party tonight with Humberto's neighbor nephews and their families.
Eddy's  haircut
Buying veggies at the market
When we got back to the house we sat outside and ate some pitaya. It was incredibly juicy and delicious.We had a nice lunch of salad with fresh avocado and cheese, with fresh pineapple juice to drink. Craig and I took showers so that we would be ready for the evening. Aracely colored in the Crayola book. Paulina got out a folder of homework papers that Eddy had been given to practice over the summer. He colored for over an hour, doing a nice neat job.

Paola and Humberto

Paola and Julisse were all dressed up to go to a school fundraising block party on the next street over. Humberto wanted to take Aracely and Eddy for ice cream. Ice cream? Wasn't it almost time for the dinner party? "Not for a couple hours," said Humberto. We swung by the block party but there was a curtain over the entrance to the park so you couldn't really see what was going on. But you could hear  a band churning out some live music.

 We followed Calle 14 de Febrero down to Santander and popped out at Sarita, the ice cream shop where we usually go with the family. Humberto said there was another newer location further down the street that he liked better. So we walked down to it. Craig and I didn't want much because we didn't want to spoiul our dinner, so we shared a single scoop of mora (blackberry) frozen ogurt. Aracely, Eddy, and Humberto each got small sundaes, and each kid gave each of us a bite.

Ice cream at Sarita: Aracely, Craig, Steph, Eddy
We walked back home and met up with Paola and Julisse in the street. I asked how the party was and they said that it had been boring. All the kids were home now so we took the opportunity to give them the presents we had bought them in Vietnam. We got each of the girls a small porcelain doll dressed in various ethnic minority outfits. They were wrapped in bubble wrap, which, as expected, almost caused more enjoyment than the gift itself. We gave Eddy a small metal bicycle with a chain that really turned the back tire. Vanesa hung her doll from her purse. Aracely sat hers in the basket of Eddy's small bike and took it for a ride. It was just the right size.

Yolanda, Fatima, Juan Carlos, Craig, Steph, Victor, Rosa, Paulina
Neli and Fatima
Humberto's nephew Victor came over with his wife Rosa and their kids Andrik, Julisse, and Neli. Junior, now looking all grown up at age 12,  came with them as well. Junior's parents Yolanda and Juan Carlos and little sister Fatima shortly arrived as well. There was a wooden table for the adults in the garden area, and a similar table for the kids on the concrete in front of the house. Still other kids ate inside the house at the dining room table. We had a very nice dinner of chicken in mushroom sauce with mixed veggies and rice.


El Aleph Disco Bar


They were drinking  Brahva beer, but Juan Carlos had thoughtfully brought some rum and 7Up for me, since I can't drink beer. For dessert there was a cake to celebrate my and Humberto's birthdays, which had each occurred in the past couple of weeks.

At around 10 o'clock, the four couples along with Victor and Rosa's eldest son Alex walked up Santander Street to El Aleph Disco Bar. This was somewhere that they had been coming together for the past few weekends, to do some drinking and dancing.

The place was hopping and "Gangnam Style" was playing when we entered. Lasers and lights were flashing. The white on our clothing glowed in the black light.  They staked out a table and ordered beer for them and vodka and orange juice for me. Alex stayed with the table and the four couples proceeded to the dance floor.It was really hot in there and after dancing for almost an hour, we were overheated and we sat down to take a rest.  Couples rotated in and out, taking breaks to have a few sips of their drinks before getting back into the sweaty mob.  Craig saw a familiar face over by the bar. It was Pablo whom we had met last year. He came over a couple of times to say hello.

Humberto danced with me for a couple of songs, and also adeptly handled a drunk guy before he could become a little too friendly. We were pleasantly surprised that there was no smoking in this disco. So although the air felt tropical and sticky, we could at least breathe. Any smoke seen was a result of a fog machine.

It was a lot of fun. at 1 o'clock, the place closed and we walked home. We said goodnight to everyone and we all went to our respective houses to sleep at 1:30.

The docks in Panajachel
Our swimming spot at Cerro de Oro
Vanesa
Yasmin and Paola
Yasmin and Yoselin
Picnic: Paola, Craig, Yoselin, Yasmin, Neli, Eddy, Humberto, Paulina, Aracely

On Sunday morning we slept in. Breakfast was a mixture of dinner party leftovers and scrambled eggs. As a drink we had warm ponche, a fresh fruit cider. All the kids were together, sitting side by side at thet able, and we were struck by how much they had all grown. They don't all play the way they used to; they have matured and our relationship with them starts to change as well.

At around 12:15, the whole family and Neli headed down to the docks on Lake Atitlan. It looked like many of the docks had been replaced since last year. You could walk on them without fearing that you would fall right through.   We boarded a lancha (small motorized boat) called the Linda Palopo, and crossed the lake to Cerro de Oro. The scenery was gorgeous, with volcanoes and mountains ringing the crater lake. There was a nice grassy area here next to the remains of a house that was never finished. There was a shallow place that the little kids could swim, and a deeper place near some large rocks where the adults could jump in. The water was quite cold at first but was very refreshing. We enjoyed swimming around. After a while my core was actually cold and I needed to get out. This was a rarity; I am usually hot and sweaty all the time in Guatemala.


Paulina, Humberto, Vanesa, Paola, Yasmin, Yoselin, Eddy, Neli, Aracely
Aracely at Igelsia San Francisco at Cerro de Oro

Aracely and Neli collected some snail shells for us and also picked us flowers. When everyone was out of the water and had started to dry off, we had lunch. It was a picnic consisting of fresh tomatoes, cucumbers, bananas, peaches, and strawberries.  It was always so nice to eat local, fresh food when we come to Guatemala.

After lunch we packed up and hiked through some corn fields up to the road. The area was very pretty and there were some nice houses there. The kids stopped for a few minutes at a playground with a metal slide and monkeybars.

We walked up a hill to San Francisco church. Father Stanley Francisco Rother, a priest originally from Oklahoma City, was killed during the Gutemalan genocide in 1981. He was beloved by his parishioners and was viewed as a martyr after trying to help them. There is a shrine to him at his church in Santiago Atitlan. But he also had a parish here in Cerro de Oro. So we saw a shrtine for him here too. The church building itself seemed large compared to the size of the community. Maybe the people here are particularly pious, given when they underwent during the genocide.

We took some group photos in front of the church;  they had a nice view of the lake in the background. The girls bought frozen chocolate covered bananas at one of the little nearby stores. These were refreshing in teh afternoon heat  Paola boosted Vanesa up to pick a pitaya fruit from the cactus vine. The first one she grabbed was too overripe, and would up disintegrating in her hand. She threw it to the ground and then got a second, which she cut into wedges so that everyone could have a taste. Talk about fresh!

We walked past some very pretty areas which have been choked with water lilies. The reflection of the white puffy clouds on the water with the white flowers and green leaves was beautiful.We walked to the Cerro de Oro docks and took the Linda Paolopo lancha back to Pana.

Lillies on the lake
Humberto, Yasmin, and Paola on the boat back to Pana


We came home and took showers (unfortunately the lake is polluted, so it is always a good idea to shower after a swim). Just as we were getting ready to emerge from our room, there was a knock at the door. It was Rocio! We had not been able to be there for her quinceañera in April, so we had brought her some gifts now. It was really great to see her as we hadn't seen her in a year and a half. She is growing into a lovely young lady. She told us that on Friday she had come in second in a regional science olympiad  even competing against a college student! We asked how her mom Juana was, and she told us that she was home, would we like to say hello? Of course we would!

Rocio and Juana had previously lived in a  house with Humberto and Juana's mother, who had passed away almost a year ago. Since then they had moved across the alley. It was our first time into this house, which shares the exact footprint of Humberto's house. Aracely went with us and helped to translate, and Josue joined us as well. We gave Rocio two blouses and we also delivered a small gift from a dear friend of ours who happens to share her birthday. It has been a rough year for them, suffering the losses of three separate people who were quite close to them, and it was nice to see them smiling. Rocio gave me a stuffed teddy bear with a heart and she gave Craig a stuffed bulldog. What a sweetie!
Steph, Rocio, Craig

When we got back to the house, Humberto and Paulina were watching some of our Ecuador videos on my computer. They asked us some questions about Antonio and his family, our compadres in Ecuador. This led us to think that it would be fun to some day get Antonio's family and Humberto's families together to meet one another. We think they would enjoy learning from one another.'s cultures.

After 8 o'clock we headed right around the corner to Paulina's sister Isabela's restaurant on Rancho Grande. All six kids, along with Humberto, Paulina, Craig, and myself. Isabela's restaurant had been in this location for just over a year and was doing a good business. There were two other tables of people dining, and a couple of people at the bar. We had loved Isabela's tacos the last time we were here, so we wanted more of the same. A lot of the kids ordered hamburgers, a novelty for them that they don't always get a chance to have.

Isabela was alone in the kitchen so Paola went back to help her. Craig, paulina, and Humberto shared some large bottles of Gallo beer. The girls had strawberry smoothies. The tacos were delicious, just as we remembered them. Chicken tacos with carmelized onions, picante, and all the fixins. We stole a couple of fries from the kids' burger plates and they were excellent as well. It wouldn't have been a proper night out if Yoselin hadn't fallen asleep in her chair. After rousing her, we walked back to the house at 10:30 with full bellies.

Isabela's restaurant
Isabela
Paola helps to serve food at Isabela's restaurant

On Monday morning we had breakfast and then went with Paulina, Humberto, Eddy, and Aracely to Atitlan Multicultural Academy,.Aracely and Eddy's English-immersion school. The school is in the process of moving locations, and until this morning it was still yet to be announced which of two properties they would choose.


We went to the current location and met Alyssa, who is the new director. She said they had just decided on a new property and she took us to see it. It was only a short walk from the previous location, so it was still within fairly easy walking distance to the house.  They would be renting a space which had formerly been used as a gallery and art space. It was a gorgeous colonial building with high ceilings and wood beam construction. It had a lot of character, and had a beautiful private yard where the kids could play in the shade of many trees and plants. We walked out the front gate of the property (which had an adult-sized door and a child-sized door which looked like the entrance to a hobbit hole) and went next door, to a property which is currently used as a house. They will adjoin the two yards and the house will be used as school space for the younger grades, including Aracely and Eddy.

Alyssa sat with us outside and as hummingbirds passed by and fiesty Scottish terriers played with the kids, she outlined her vision for the school. She studied economic development in Latin American countries, and previously worked at Kiva. For the past few years she has been the director of Hiptypico, a company which fairly trades with local artisans. She works with the community and the artisans provide higher quality wares than the cheap stuff usually sold in tourist markets, so they are able to be sold at high-end prices. She is starting a nonprofit which will also benefit the sc hool., She wants to encourage microgiving, giving $5 or $10 via the website, to receive a small handmade gift and to know that they are helping an indigenous child to get a world-class education. Alyssa's enthusiasm is infectious, and we wish her nothing but the best. We are looking forward to the launch of the school's new website which will encourage online donations.

Alyssa was very generous with her time and we were thrilled to get the inside scoop on some of the changes within the school. We are thrilled by the progress that Aracely and Eddy have made at school, and we know they are excited to be the first kids to have seen the new space!


Alyssa, Eddy, Aracely, Paulina, and Humberto in front of the new AMA property
One of the new AMA buildings
Aracely, Eddy, and Alyssa
We went back to the house and had a nice lengthy chat with Humberto. Paulina made us a nice spaghetti and meat sauce for lunch which we ate outside.  We gave the kids a game called Suspend where you need to hang and balance metal pieces based of rolls of a dice. It was a lot of fun and we had fun playing all afternoon. Josue and his young niece Brittany came over. When he was little his big brother Luis used to bring hij over and take care of him, and now he was assuming that role with Brittany. He had matured so much at the ripe old age of 8. He was very patient with her and helped her to place pieces.

Paulina and Humberto showed us Aracely and Eddy's report cards from school. They were excellent. We were so proud of the progress that they have been making. The school has been a wonderful opportunity for them.

Yoselin, Yasmin, and Aracely playing Suspend
Brittany and Josue

Then we went around the corner and up an alley to Paulina's family's land. Yoselin, Aracely, and Eddy went with Humberto, Paulina, Craig, and me. The kids' young cousin Alison Margarita greeted us with a hug as soon as we entered the property. Loren was with her, and had grown quite tall in the past year.

We  sat in the courtyard with Paulina's sister Olga and chatted. Paulina's other sister Estela emerged from the house with baby Michele in her arms. She handed her to me and Michele was quite content. She had been so tiny a year ago, and now she was walking. Estela's older girls, Laisa and Yesmy, were in and out of the house. Olga's older daughters Odilia and Pamela were around, and young Juan Isidro now goes by the nickname "Chilo." Paulina's brother Carlos also came out to say hello.
Alison Margarita and Loren
Yoselin and Michele
Craig and his buddy Alison Margarita
Yoselin, Steph, Eddy, Aracely

The cousins enjoyed playing with one another. Alison Margarita came over to sit on Craig's lap. Just like last time we visited, she paid very close attention to everything he said, nodding seriously, but also at times giving him big smiles. Loren brought us each a plastic baggie filled with peach juice. It was very tasty.

Olga has taken over her late father's business: she sells fresh juice on Santander Street from a cart. Eddy went over to the juice cart and tried to push it. As the adults told him to stop, the cart seemed to fall over in slow motion. Luckily, none of the glasses broke. The only casualties were five eggs which were now cracked. This prompted Olga to invite us to stay for dinner. She and Paulina prepared huevos rancheros with black beans.

We went back to the house where the other three girls were watching TV and playing on the computer.We said our goodnights and the girls promised that they would see us in the morning before we left.

The next morning we woke up early and went up onto the roof terrace to have a look around the neighborhood. Humberto wants to put a small kitchen and a dining table up here to serve breakfast to clients who rent the guest rooms. You can see a glimpse of the lake and the volcanoes from up there, and it is a very pretty spot. He plans to put some sort of canopy to provide shade as well. We are sure that it will turn out beautifully.

Though a couple of the kids had wanted to drive to the airport with us, there was a free dental clinic in town today, and all six kids needed dental checkups. Everyone woke up to say goodbye to us. We all ate cereal together and then walked down the alley to the office, where Adrin was waiting in the van. We hugged and kissed everyone, saying goodbye for now, but that we would be back before they knew it in 6 months. Craig and I got into the van and took a picture of the whole family from the van window. They waved and clapped as we pulled away, and I wiped a small tear from the corner of my eye.

It took about 2 hours and 45 minutes to get to the airport in Guatemala City. Once we had checked in at the American kiosk, we ate lunch at Pollo Campero. The chicken and fries weren't as fresh and hot as they usually are, but they were still tasty. We saw signs advertising their new hamburgers. Perhaps they should stick to what they know: chicken!

Our flight to Miami took off on time at 2:15. When we arrived in Miami we went through a new customs area. The line was long but moved swiftly. However, you still end up getting into individual queues at the very end, which means you can still end up in a slow line (which we did). When we got to the immigration agent, he mispronounced Guatemala, called us Yankees, and asked why our godchildren were in Guatemala to begin with, instead of here. "Um, because they're Guatemalan citizens?" I said, biting my tongue so that I didn't say the rest of what I was thinking.

We were able to go through a very short security line because we had no checked baggage. We got to our gate and got sandwiches at Cafe Versailles. The same sandwiches as on our flight down: chicken salad croissant and jerk chicken wrap.

The flight home was not full, and I was able to convince our seatmate to move across the aisle to give all of us more room. We departed on time at 9:15 p.m., landing in Boston at around 12:25 a.m.

Vanesa, Paola, Yasmin, Yoselin, Paulina, Aracely, Eddy, Humberto
P.S. Thank you so much, Yoselin, for the letter, picture, and going-away surprise that you had for us!

Monday, June 17, 2013

Bungy Jumping in New Zealand - 10 Years Ago



We just transferred this bungy video from an old VHS tape. It's hard to believe that it was 10 years ago.  Although we hadn't originally planned on bungy jumping in New Zealand, we found that we couldn't leave Queenstown, the action-sports capital of the country, site of the very bridge where bungy jumping was invented, without giving it a try.

So on April 15, 2003, we went to AJ Hackett's Bungy at Kawarau Bridge first thing in the morning.
Are we ever glad that we did! It was amazing! We wrote all about it and posted pictures on our web site, but this is the first time we've had a digital copy of the video.














Monday, May 27, 2013

Travels in Northern Vietnam Part IV: Halong Bay and Hanoi


What felt like mere moments later, the conductor knocked on our cabin door at 4:45 a.m. to announce that we would soon be arriving at the train station in Hanoi.  Wow, we had both slept very soundly on the train. It felt like we had just gone to bed!

When we disembarked from the train, Cuong and a porter were waiting for us. We were at Ga Ha Noi, the French colonial train station with its hub rebuilt in Soviet-style after the war. Though it seemed like a lifetime had passed since we last laid eyes on this train station, we were actually only 2/3 of the way through the trip. We were only passing through town quickly, on our way to the coast.

We hopped into the car and drove through 5:30 a.m. Hanoi traffic to a hotel where we could freshen up before driving to Halong Bay for the next phase of the trip. We arrived at the Skylark Hotel,  and Cuong went to the reception desk to check us in. He was told that since he didn't reconfirm the reservation, they had not held a room for us. Though they spoke entirely in Vietnamese, the word "re-confirm" was spoken in English. Cuong would tell us later that the Vietnamese work for "re-confirm" is very long, so the English word has crept into their vocabulary as a shortcut.

Dawn arrival at Ga Ha Noi (Hanoi Station)
Victoria Express Railways Car
For the first time in the trip, Cuong was visibly flustered. So far, the logistics had all gone like clockwork. He and Mr. Giang worked very hard to make it look effortless. Everything just worked. Cuong was not at all pleased, and he made his disapproval known to the desk staff. Though we couldn't understand the words, it was clear that the desk clerk was telling him that they did not have a room that they could give us.

We told Cuong that it was fine, that we had showered before the train and we were sure that there was some sort of shower on tonight's boat. But Cuong would have none of it. He had promised us a shower this morning and he was going to deliver. "My house is very close. We can go there." This was very sweet, but we didn't want to show up unannounced at their house at the crack of dawn.  That would be quite an imposition on the family.

Someone at the hotel suggested the Marigold Hotel, which was apparently just a couple of doors down. We walked over and Cuong talked to someone at the desk. They had a vacancy, so Cuong booked us a room.  He told us to take a nice shower and eat some breakfast, and that he and Mr. Giang would be back to pick us up at 8:30.

We rode the small elevator to the 4th floor. The building was very narrow, and took up a small footprint, the way that many buildings in the city did. However it was quite tall, with 10 stories. Each floor only had a handful of rooms. The boutique hotel was newly built. Though room #403 was small, it was clean and modern. There were two twin beds and a nice marble bathroom with a large shower. It felt like an interior ship's compartment, as there were no windows. We showered and took the opportunity to write some postcards to our grandparents.

After freshening up, we took the elevator up to the 10th floor restaurant. A young Vietnamese man rode with us. He greeted us in English and asked about our trip. He was visiting Hanoi with his family.
Our room at the Marigold Hotel

When we got to the 10th floor, the elevator door opened and we stepped into the dining room. We were the only Western tourists in the place. As Vietnamese families enjoyed the buffet breakfast, they looked at us with curiosity. The adults avoided our gaze shyly, while the toddlers outright stared at us. There was even an outdoor patio roofdeck, with a sandstone dividing wall blocking the urban view to surrounding rooftops and making it appear more like a courtyard,

We enjoyed the breakfast buffet of fried rice, grilled chicken,  yogurt, fruit, cheese, bread, orange juice, and coffee. A baby at a neighboring table did something really cute. Everyone laughed, including us, and suddenly the ice was broken between us and the local tourist families.

At 8:30, Cuong and Mr. Giang picked us up and we headed off to Halong Bay. It was Friday morning rush houir, and the traffic was very heavy getting out of Hanoi. We were once again back in our comfortable Toyota Innova, with its Vietnamese and American flags on the dashboard. We weren't sure how long the drive would be, but Mr. Giang had stocked us up with fresh water bottles and as usual the time flew as we engaged in very interesting conversations.

On the outskirts of the city, we passed an industrial zone, with large power plants. Then later as we got into more rural areas, we passed a monument commemorating the place where Ho Chi Minh stopped at a rest area while accompanying a dignitary to Halong Bay in 1962.

Cuong told us that on our way, we would stop at a good place to buy souvenirs: a handicraft cooperative started in 1996 to teach people with physical disabilities to make and sell various types of artwork. He explained that there have been many people born with births defects
attributed to Agent Orange during the war, and also DDT used in the rice paddies after the war.

Even many of Cuong's close friends (his brothers-in-arms from the war) had children with birth defects. Cuong and Nhung are lucky that both of their children were born healthy. He attributes it in part to the fact that he was very careful about the water that he drank in the jungle during the war. In five years, he only drank unboiled water twice, when he was absolutely desperate.  Once he hadn't had anything to drink in 2 days. When confronted with water in a stream, he couldn't be picky and boil it first, so he just started to drink it. A flare went off during the course of the battle and he was able to see that the water that many had died in this water which was giving him life.

Cuong was very specific that he wanted us to write about his war experiences and attitudes in our blog. We realize that these are sensitive issues, and we asked whether he could get in trouble for expressing them. "I've been expressing them for twenty years," he told us. He handed us a photocopy of an article from the San Diego Union-Tribune. At his brief visit home this morning, he had thought to grab it for us. "Vietnam: What Is It All About?" by James D. Jameson.  Cuong was Mr. Jameson's guide and interpreter during an interview with a Vietnamese Foreign Minister in the early 1990's. He had echoed to Mr. Jameson the same sentiments he had described to us: that he doesn't feel that Americans should feel that they lost the war. They were fighting against the expansion of communism, and the Vietnam that they have today, with a freer economy, probably wouldn't have evolved without the war.

Artisans at Hong Ngoc Fine Art Company
Embroidery that we bought at Hong Ngoc Fine Art Company

We pulled over at the Hong Ngoc Fine Art Company, the cooperative where handicraft sales benefit the physically disabled artisans. Many tourist buses were stopping here. You could tell by the number of rest rooms that they must do quite a business.

Cuong told us that we would see the artisans creating their works inside the showroom. We feared it might feel exploitative of the artisans, but as we went inside, we realized that it did not feel like that at all. We entered a vast room where beautiful embroidered tapestries (tranh thêu) hung framed on the walls. Stacks of unframed tapestries of all sizes were piled up on tables everywhere you looked. The workmanship was exquisite. There were many motifs to choose from, from portraits to landscapes to abstracts.

Sales people swarmed around the many western tourists who looked through the stacks of embroidery. They were there to answer any questions and help, but were not pushy at all. Rows of artisans sat at tables, doing this delicate work. We definitely wanted to purchase some embroidery. It was beautiful work and the money supported a great cause. We just couldn't make up our minds as they were all so beautiful.

Cuong told us that he would order us coffee at the snack bar while we decided what to buy. We pored through stacks of embroidery. We wanted to buy one which had very delicate needlework.  After much deliberation, we finally decided on an embroidery piece depicting pink flowers and blue mountains reflected in a lake. It was very detailed, and looked more like a watercolor than embroidery.

Once we decided on the one we wanted to buy, our salesperson rolled it up and packaged it for us. She led us out of the embroidery room, through a jewelry showroom, and into an area which had a row of cashiers. We now realized that the embroidery was only a small portion of what was for sale here. There were people using sewing machines to make clothes, and there was a section of ceramicware.We saw some adorable magnets depicting the different ethnicites of Vietnam, and we added a couple of boxes of them to our order.  Though our salesgirl had priced our items in Vietnamese dong, the cashiers had all of the exchange rates and could instantly convert them into any currency desired.

They even have a mini-post office, as they apparently ship so much merchandise all around the world. We were able to buy stamps here and mail our postcards. We headed over to the snack bar with our purchases, and drank the coffees that Cuong had purchased for us. Though he hadn't hurried us along at all during our shopping, it was clear that he was getting edgy and was ready to leave. After my coffee, I wanted to get a couple of photos of the embroidery room. I ran back (it was amazing how huge this place was) and snapped a couple of photros. When I returned, they were already all outside in the car waiting for me. Cuong wasn't kidding that he was now in a rush!

Shrine commemorating Ho Chi Minh's rest stop on the way to Halong Bay
Houses in Halong City being cut in half by road construction

Back on the road, we passed a second place where Ho Chi Minh had taken a rest room break. This one was commemorated by reforestation of trees. Cuong said jokingly that if Ho Chi Minh had taken more rest room break, maybe then deforestation wouldn't be such a problem today.

We arrived in Halong City. A lot of work was being done to widen the road here. We saw many houses which had been half demolished to make way for the wide road to this popular tourist destination. People were still living in them even though walls were torn down. Cuong said that if the houses were legally built, the owners will be compensated by eminent domain. But some houses were built illegally here, so they lose everything if the house is torn down. I guess this explains why people were still try to go about life as usual with a road running through their living rooms. Eventually we could see the ocean and the limestone pillars rising out of it.

We arrived at the marina at around 12:30 p.m. It was swarming with people: tourists waiting to board their boats, crew shuttling supplies to the boats. There were cement stairs leading down to the water, like the ghats we had seen in India. There were small shuttle boats moored at the dock. The bigger boats were out further in the harbor. This portion of the trip was run by a local company named Sea Canoe. We met our Sea Canoe guide, who was also named Cuong, and our captain and crew.
We said goodbye to Mr. Giang. We got onto a shuttle boat and put on life jackets as the crew loaded all of our luggage supplies onboard.  When everything was ready, we wound our way through all of the other shuttle boats and out toward the larger boats. We had no idea what to expect in terms of a boat. At times the crew had to literally push our way in between two other boats. Cuong pointed out that all of the boats from Halong City had to be painted white. It must have been a great boon for the white paint industry in the area.


Boats lined up along the ghats in Halong City
Our cabin on Hoa Binh 28
We pulled up alongside the Hoa Binh 28, a large boat which would be our home for the next two nights. We climbed aboard and realized that we had the whole boat to ourselves; there were no other guests. They showed us to our cabin at the rear of the boat, which had a double bed and a private bathroom. There were towels folded into swans on the bed. We had large picture windows on two walls. as well as a private balcony with a table and two chairs. It was quite comfortable. There was also an adjoining room which was the mirror image of ours. Together the two rooms  took  up the rear of the boat. We had access to the second room as well, which meant access to a second bathroom for showering. The rooms had air conditioning, but it couldn't be turned on until the boat's motor was running. Cuong got settled into his room, which was kitty-corner to ours.

We decided to explore the boat while the captain and crew were preparing to set sail. There was a large dining area with a bar, buffet tables, and a dining table. The table was set for two, and we immediately insisted that they add a place setting for Cuong. Cuong realized that he had forgotten the rice wine, and sent someone back to the docks to pick it up from Mr. Giang.

It was amazing to us how luxurious the boat was. I guess we had thought that there might be other guests on this  part of thetrip, but we should have known better. Toni had totally hooked us up. I guess the dayroom at the Marigold Hotel this morning hadn't been absolutely necessary. The shower situation was quite nice here. Little had we known that Craig, Cuong, and I would have the entire boat to ourselves!

The captain fired up the engines and we were on our way. The ocean was very smooth; no threat of seasickness here (though we had come prepared with motion sickness medication just in case).
We went out onto the deck, where there were tables and chairs set up behind the wheelhouse. We climbed up a set of stairs to a top level deck which had rattan lounge chairs surrounded by many potted plants. Half of the deck was shaded by a large bimini top. Cuong gave Craig a Ha Noi beer and I tried out one of the lounge chairs. It was very comfortable. We could get used to this life for the next couple of days.

We were soon called down to the dining area for lunch.  I don't know what we were expecting in terms of food on the boat, but we certainly didn't expect something as elaborate as this. Three whole crabs sat looking up at us from their plate. There was another plate full of cucumber slices which had all been elaborately carved into fancy shapes, with a tomato peel rose in the center (we knew from experience in Hanoi how delicate and difficult a job this was). Squid was served with lemongrass and garlic. We also had fried chicken, fish, fried tofu, cabbage, and rice. It was all delicious. The young crew had a very delicate touch with the food, and we enjoyed it very much. If we had been expecting to "rough it" in any way, we were pleasantly mistaken.

Lunch on Halong Bay
Craig, Cuong, and "Sea Canoe Cuong"
View of karst pillars from our boat
Local fishing vessel amongst the karst
The Cuongs
"Sea Canoe Cuong" got out a nice map of Halong Bay and showed us where we would be going for the next two and a half days. Halong Bay covers an area of around 1500 square miles, and consists of over 3000 limestone (karst) islands rising up from the sea. The name "Halong" means dragon descending, and there is a legend that says that a dragon spat out jade and jewels that turned into the islands in order to confound enemy ships who were trying to take the bay.

Unlike many of the boats in the area which do day trips and return to the docks in Halong City at night, our boat has a safe place to anchor overnight in the areas where we would kayak, near Cat Ba Island. He showed us the area on the map.

After lunch, we got ready for an afternoon of kayaking. We changed into our bathing suits and changed to new memory cards in our cameras (just in case of any accidents in the water, we didn't want to lose all of our photos from the trip so far.) The crew inflated two kayaks on the deck while we enjoyed the views of the gorgeous karst pillars layered against one another in the distance.

At around 3:30 p.m., we reached the area where we would be doing our kayaking. We climbed down a ladder on the side of the boat into our 3-man kayak. "Sea Canoe Cuong" was in the back, Craig was in the middle, and I was in the front. After we got settled, Cuong and another of the crew members got into a second kayak. Cuong had his nice camera to get shots of us during our paddle.

As soon as we were in the water, we were approached by two women who were running a floating snack bar. They waved and asked if we wanted to purchase anything. We told them that we were all set, as we had our water bottles with us and plenty of food back on the boat.

I tried to keep in synch with "Sea Canoe Cuong" in terms of paddling. Being in the middle, Craig didn't have a paddle. Although we were sitting in a little bit of water that got into bottom of the kayak when we got in, the water was so calm that there was no danger of getting our cameras wet or anything like that.


Cuong prepares to board a kayak

Cuong and one of the crew members kayaking

Kayaking through a cave to a hidden lagoon at Halong Bay

Karst pinnacle and cave in Halong Bay
The limestone karst formations rising out of the water are remnants of a sea bed of coral and sea shells. Over the years, erosion has formed them into pillars that rise majestically from the water. At the water level, the karst is often undercut and caves have been formed. The water was a turquoise blue, and we paddled straight toward one of these caves. We entered the cave and it was pitch black inside. We heard voices, seemingly coming out of nowhere. Then we saw flashlight beams. Two people in a red kayak were in the cave pulling clams off of the rocks. "Sea Canoe Cuong" had a spotlight which he shone to reveal small stalactites and glittery minerals along the walls and ceiling of the cave. As we turned a corner, we could see daylight streaming in from the other end of the cave. We emerged into a  hidden lagoon. It was as if we had passed through a portal to another world.  It was so  peaceful and beautiful. As we paddled, we could see sea life such as sponges and clams below the water's surface.It was a good thing that the inflatable kayaks were every sturdy, so they could withstand brushing up against some sharp clam shells. From this hidden lagoon we could no longer see our boat, or any other boats in the same area. There were no other signs of civilization.

After enjoying our paddle around this hidden gem, we paddled out through the same cave. The tide was coming in and water was filling up the lagoon. We were paddling against the current. At one point we hit some shallow water in the cave and got hung up for a minute or two, but soon we were able to continue and we once again saw light at the end of the tunnel. We emerged to see our boat once again.

We paddled along silently, taking our time and soaking up the atmosphere. We saw a few other kayakers. The Cuongs called out to them, asking if they had seen any wildlife. Apparently there are monkeys in the area. They said that they hadn't seen any. This was disappointing, but they were a larger group and were talking and making some noise. Maybe we would fare better.

We paddled through a second cave. The rock formations were amazing. This was about as opposite from the hustle and bustle of Hanoi as you could get. We totally lost track of time and were fully immersed in the experience.

Before we knew it, the Cuongs were asking, "Are you up for one more cave?"  Daylight was waning, but we weren't ready to quit yet. We paddled through a third cave and emerged in a grotto that seemed lost in time. We paddled around quietly.

We saw a tree shaking far above us on one of the karst pillars, and "Sea Canoe Cuong" pointed out a white-headed langur (also known as a  Cat Ba langur). They are one of the most endangered primates in the world, and there are only 40 known to exist today. We couldn't believe our luck to actually see one! We could hear it chattering as it swung from the trees. We could easily make it out with the naked eye, but our cameras didn't have a good enough zoom to capture an image of the langur. Luckily Cuong was able to use his zoom lens to get one. It didn't come out as clearly as he would have liked (the langur was far away, it was moving, and we were on a moving kayak), but at least he captured it.


Steph, Craig, and "Sea Canoe Cuong" emerge from a cave (photo courtesy of Cuong)
"Sea Canoe Cuong", Craig, and Steph emerging from a cave(photo courtesy of Cuong)

"Sea Canoe Cuong", Craig, and Steph  reflected in Halong Bay (photo courtesy of Cuong)

Cuong and a crew member kayak through a cave
Cuong and a crew member kayak into a cave
White-headed (aka Cat Ba) Langur (photo courtesy of Cuong)
Our boat, Hoa Binh 28
Karst at sunset, Halong Bay

Craig on the upper deck of the Hoa Binh 28 at sunset
I looked back at Craig sitting behind me in the kayak and he was absolutely beaming. As if the scenery here wasn't beautiful enough, we had a rare wildlife encounter. This day just kept getting better and better! The Cuongs were also beaming, utterly thrilled to be able to share this unique experience with us.

Then "Sea Canoe Cuong" directed our attention a few trees to the left, where there was a yellow-faced common monkey holding its baby looking down at us. This was unbelievable. Once again, Cuong was able to capture it digitally. Thank goodness we had decided to go into this one last lagoon. It had proven to be the highlight of the paddle.

As the sunlight waned, we happily paddled back out through the cave and back to the Hoa Binh 28. We climbed up the ladder from our kayaks as the sun began to sink behind a karst island. We had kayaked for just over 2 hours. Cuong looked through his photos, and Craig and I went up onto the top deck to enjoy the twilight scenery. The captain brought us to where we would anchor for the night, near Cat Ba island. There were other boats anchored there as well, and we could see their lights reflected on the water in the distance.

After sunset, Craig and I both took showers. Since we had two cabins available to us, we took showers at the same time in the two bathrooms. When we came out on deck, Cuong and one of the crew were setting up for karaoke. They had a TV and karaoke machine. At the bar area, they turned on some Christmas lights and a disco light to set the mood. Cuong wanted to demonstrate different types of Vietnamese music.

He started out with a Red Song, called "Song of the Long Mountain." Red music, or Nhac Do, is a class of patriotic songs. They come from northern Vietnam, and were officially sanctioned by the government during the wars against the French and the Americans. Red songs have a marching beat, and were used in a martial context to motivate soldiers. They are associated with the color red because it is the dominant color in the Vietnamese flag.

Cuong has a very nice singing voice, and the microphone had a slight echo effect, so he sounded very professional. After the Red Song, he sang a Yellow Song. This class of songs was from southern Vietnam. During the wars it had been illegal to sing them and could get the singer arrested and put in jail. Yellow Songs, or Nhạc Vàng, were usually emotional ballads, and quite often were about anti-war themes. They were associated with the color yellow because it was the dominant color of the South Vietnamese flag.


Then Cuong performed a Brown Song. These were the folk songs of the farmers, identified by the color brown because it was the color that farmers used to dye their clothes. Cuong had started out singing in a seated position, but he got more and more into it as he sang, and he wound up standing and dancing along to the music.

He told us that the fourth category of music was the Blue Song, which were songs from abroad. Today the Vietnamese can sing or listen to any music that they want. After singing a couple more traditional Red, Yellow, and Brown Songs, he burst into Boney M's "Daddy Cool", which I guess would be an example of a blue song.

Cuong provided great entertainment, and taught us a lot. I was starting to wonder what songs this karaoke machine might have that I know. Before we knew it, dinner was announced. Craig looked at me and I could tell that he was thinking "Food again, already? Didn't we just eat lunch?"

Cuong singing karaoke
Cuong singing karaoke
Dinner (photo courtesy of Cuong)

Cuong poured us shots of rice wine and we toasted with a  hearty "Chuc suc khoe!" Cuong assured us that "Sea Canoe Cuong" also enjoyed rice wine, and that he would be joining us for a toast later on.
Dinner proved to be more elaborate than even lunch had been. The presentation of the food was exquisite.Prawns and mantis shrimp were arranged in a wine glass which also contained vegetables carved into the shape of tulips. It looked too pretty to eat! Crinkle cut French fries were served on a plate which had a heart-shaped ring of finely cut cucumbers around it, as well as a rose carved from a carrot. A plate of rice had carrot "petals"radiating from it, making the whole thing look like a lotus flower. Wow, the young crew sure was talented in the culinary department. We also had clams, potato dumplings,beef with onions, and spring rolls. Everything was delicious. Craig looked overwhelmed by the whole spread. He was only picking at his food, which alerted me to the fact that his stomach wasn't feeling very well. Ordinarily he would be digging into this wonderful bounty of food.

Craig started to overheat, even though the temperature in the dining room was quite comfortable.
He decided to stop eating, and headed out onto the deck to get some fresh air. Cuong and I finished up our meals and had another toast. Craig was sitting right out the door so he was still able to participate in the conversation. I brought out our photo album from home and took the opportunity to show Cuong the photos. He said to make sure that we brought it to his house when we have our farewell dinner so that we could show his wife and sons.

Craig wound up getting sick. The whole crew was very good about it, and they soon served him some ginger tea to try to help to settle his stomach. We hoped that whatever was bothering his stomach had been expelled, and that a good night's rest would be all that Craig needed to be back to his normal self tomorrow.

Craig retired to our room shortly before 9 p.m. to try to get some rest. Cuong and I stayed up chatting for a few minutes, and had another toast. Then I decided that I should probably check on Craig. We said goodnight and made plans to meet for breakfast before going out kayaking again in the morning.

When I got into the room it was quite hot. The air conditioner was actually blowing hot air. We managed to turn off the flow of hot air, but it was still very warm in the room, and we could smell diesel exhaust from the engine. Craig was already in bed, though he wasn't asleep yet. I got him an antibiotic, just in case it was something more than indigestion. I wrote in the journal and then got into bed myself.

At 11 o'clock, Craig woke up suddenly and ran to the bathroom to get violently ill. I felt his forehead and he was burning up. Sweat was pouring from his body onto the floor. He tried to drink some water, but each sip would just cause him to get sick again. At this rate he was rapidly dehydrating, and it certainly felt like he had a fever.

Though I hated to wake Cuong, we had to tell him about this. We were several hours from civilization, anchored near Cat Ba island. I knocked on Cuong's door and asked if he could please come to help us. He immediately ran into our room, soon followed by "Sea Canoe Cuong" and the captain, who had heard the ruckus.

Cuong checked Craig's temperature and pulse, and got quite concerned. This seemed like more than mere indigestion, and I believe Cuong was worried that it could be his appendix.Cuong took decisive action immediately. He told me that we would head back to the Halong City marina. He made a few calls and arranged for an ambulance to meet us there. He didn't want to take any chances. Craig was in no condition to make any decisions whatsoever. After cleaning him up, he went back to bed and the rest of us sprung into action.

It would take two and a half hours to get back. Craig tried to sleep but he was very uncomfortable. I gathered an overnight bag full of necessities to take to the hospital. It was stiflingly hot in our cabin, and at times I had to go out to the deck with the crew to get some fresh air. Cuong brought me his cell phone to talk to Allie and Jen at Myths and Mountains. They were very concerned and told me to hang in there and just make sure to get copies of all medical receipts for our travel insurance.

Craig in the ambulance

At around 1:30 a.m. we arrived at the dock area in Halong City. It was quite a difference from 12 hours earlier. There was no one to be seen, and we didn't need to take a shuttle boat. Our big boat pulled right up to the ghats.  The captain and crew helped to prop Craig up and walk him off the boat. He couldn't suppport his own weight. There was a mini-van ambulance waiting there, and they loaded Craig onto a gurney. "Do you have your camera? Make sure to get a picture of me," he said. Cuong rode in the back with Craig and the EMT's. I rode in the front. The streets of Halong City were deserted so there was no need to turn on the sirens. I took a picture back through the glass at Craig. I'm sure the ambulance driver must have thought I was absolutely nuts.

Within a few minutes we arrived at the hospital. They wheeled Craig into the ER. I followed along behind with the overnight bag. Cuong talked to the doctors and nurses as they took Craig's blood pressure and temperature. Cuong asked me for Craig's MS medication, and I handed it to the doctor.   They poked around his abdomen. I stood awkwardly feeling like despite my best efforts, I was always in the way. Nobody seemed to notice, though.

I looked up and saw Mr. Giang standing there looking at us through a window. It was comforting to have him there. "Look who came to see you!" I said to Craig, and Craig was just as excited as I was. We felt a pang of guilt for causing him to be awakened in the middle of a night he was supposed to have off from work. But we were sure that he wouldn't have had it any other way. He flashed a big smile at Craig. They took Craig's sandals off his feet and Cuong handed them to Mr. Giang for safekeeping.

Cuong was able to pull up the medical forms we had filled out for Myths and Mountains on his phone, so the doctor had all of the pertinent information about Craig's medical history at hand. Technology is wonderful that way.

It was quite hot in the ER, and there was a Vietnamese man sitting on one of the beds waiting for his wife to return from some procedure. There was no privacy. They did an ekg and had trouble getting the bulbs to stick to Craig's chest. This broke the awkwardness a little and Craig, the doctors, and the man waiting for his wife shared a chuckle. The doctor mixed up some rehydration salts in a water bottle and they gave Craig 3 small yellow pills and two large white ones.

Soon afterwards he was feeling like he was going to get sick again. He asked for a bucket and it arrived just in time for him to vomit 5 times in rapid succession. So much for those pills. He was clearly not able to hold down any fluids. They gave Craig an IV to start the rehydration process. Cuong asked me for Craig's passport and he gave it to the staff. They filled out all the paper work and I didn't have to do a thing.

They decided that they wanted to do an ultrasound to rule out any kind of major problem. They told me to have a seat in the office, while they wheeled Craig off. Cuong went with him. I found myself alone in the shabby admit area. Most of the paperwork seemed to still be done on actual paper here. A couple of computer terminals were the only hint that we hadn't stepped into a hospital in the 1960's. I had a Vietnam Heritage magazine in my pocketbook, and I distractedly read through it, trying to pass the time without worrying too much.  A large clock similar to the kind we had in our school classrooms moved slowly from 2:30  to 3 o'clock in the morning. I was so tired, and I had no idea how long I would be sitting on this faded black and white vinyl chair.I had a view into a room where patients in rows of beds were hooked to dialysis machines. I wondered if we would be placed in a similar room, with dozens of other patients and no privacy. A doctor came in, glanced at Craig's paperwork, and then sat at one of the computers, taking no notice of me.

Meanwhile, they had taken Craig to a very small room for an ultrasound. The doctor psyched himself up for the procedure by doing a pull-up on a metal bar protruding from the wall.

Craig rests in our private hospital room
Shortly after 3 a.m., they wheeled Craig back into the ER area. Cuong told me that they didn't find anything wrong,"Except he's a little fat," he said with a smile. I was relieved to hear this. "They will now put you in a room where you can both rest." This sounded great to me. We had been up for almost 24 hours and we were both exhausted. They brought us to a room with air conditioning, overhead fans, two beds, and a private bathroom. Both Cuongs came in to help get us settled. They said they would be back with breakfast in the morning, and they both left.

The doctor told me to lock the door behind everyone. This seemed a bit odd (was it really necessary?) but I wasn't about to argue. I locked the door behind them. I found sheets under the pillows on the beds, and I made up the two beds. I brought a plastic bucket from the bathroom to put next to Craig's bed just in case he needed to be sick again.  There was fresh bottled water in the room, and even a little refrigerator. We decided that we should inform folks at home as to what was going on, since we were no longer on our scheduled itinerary that we had left with them. I tried calling Steve on my cell phone, but the call wouldn't go through. So I texted him to please call me. At 3:20 a.m., the phone rang and I was able to tell him what was going on. We asked him to inform our parents, and we told him that we would keep him abreast of further developments. Then we drifted off to well-deserved sleep.

At around 5:30 a.m., Craig got up to go to the bathroom. He was obviously still not well.  Afterwards the two of us laid on our separate beds, awake, listening to the beeping traffic. Really, on a Saturday? At dawn? But when we thought about it, the weekend is probably this town's busiest time, since local and international tourists come to town. It was quite warm in the room, and we dozed on and off.

At 7:45, the Cuongs arrived and knocked om the door. They came in with a full-fledged picnic brunch. They seemed to have taken all of the food and coffee from the boat and brought it here. They even brought an electric coffee pot. Clearly they were hoping that Craig would be feeling better, and that perhaps we could even resume the boat trip.

They made me a nice cup of coffee and tried to convince Craig to eat sticky rice and pork. Craig told them that he still hadn't even successfully kept down any water, so he was not up for it. I ate some bread but I was too distracted to eat much. At Cuong's urging, Craig ate a small sesame cookie and some mouthfuls of bread.

A cleaning woman came in several times to clean our bathroom. Doctors and nurses were in and out., and one changed Craig's IV. He had been working off the same bag ofsaline all night, so the drip was pretty slow. They upped in to try to get him more hydrated.

After assessing the situation, Cuong realized that there was no way we could resume the boat trip with Craig in this shape. It was disappointing to face up to this fact, but it was the right call. Cuong told us that he thought that we should really do our best to try to make it back to Hanoi today. We could stay at our beloved Metropole Hotel, and there was an international clinic around the corner if Craig needed further medical attention. Nothing sounded better than leaving this loud, hot noisy place behind and retreating to a world of comfortable luxury, where Craig could truly get some rest and start to recover. But would Craig be able to make it through a 3-hour drive without getting sick? It seemed like a daunting prospect. But the more we thought about it, the more determined he became.

The doctors came in and gave him a dose of pills. We don't know what any of them were, but we had to take their word for it. Meanwhile the Cuongs sprang intro action trying to get Craig discharged. While they were gone, a doctor came in with a packet of rehydration salts. He went to pour it into Craig's large water bottle. I tried to stop him and explain via sign language that the water bottle already had a dosage of dehydration salts in it. He smiled and nodded and added them. Those things taste bad to begin with, so I made a mental note not to let Craig drink that double dose. We had brought Gatorade packets with us, and would use those instead. We appreciated how crucial it was to have had Cuong with us to translate, because obviously I wasn't getting anywhere on my own.

Mr Giang arrived with Craig's sandals, which he had been given to hold last night. Cuong came back with a discharge waiver for me to sign. "They want to hold the handle, not the knife," he explained.  I asked how much we owed, and Cuong said, "It is all taken care of." We didn't quite know what he meant or who had taken care of it, but we were certainly grateful. A doctor came in to remove Craig's IV, and by 10:15 we were  leaving the hospital. We thanked "Sea Canoe Cuong" for all he had done, and gave him the tips for the crew that we hadn't had time to distribute in last night's chaos. Cuong handed me his phone to talk to Toni, who was worried about Craig and wanted to check in. I told her that Cuong had handled the entire situation expertly. "He's the best!" she agreed.

We got into the car and got Craig settled and comfortable. We both tried to get a little extra sleep on the ride. Mr. Giang made great time getting back to the city, and we arrived at the Metropole Hotel at 1 o'clock.  Cuong had called ahead and explained the situation, so we didn't even need to check in. We were brought to room 318 in the historic wing.   Cuong had suggested freshening up and then heading down to Nhung's restaurant (Spices Garden) for a light lunch. Craig did not feel he was in any shape to attempt his first meal in public, but we were taking one thing at a time.

We got settled in the room, and Craig got into one of the comfortable terry cloth bathrobes. We were able to dial in a comfortable temperature on the air conditioning, and we turned on an overhead fan for air movement. Craig got comfortable under the puffy white duvet. The duty manager of the hotel called the room. He had been informed by Cuong that Craig wasn't feeling well, and wanted us to know that we could ask him for anything we might need. Craig and I joked that the Metropole Hotel was like the Houses of Healing in the Lord of the Rings books.

I hopped into the shower after the hot and sticky night in the hospital. While I was in the shower, Cuong came up to the room. Craig explained that he wasn't up to eating in public, and Cuong agreed that we should just get room service. We were supposed to have dinner at Cuong's house tomorrow night, and he told us that he hoped that Craig was feeling well enough to do that. We hoped so too!

I was confident that Craig would recover, given time, rest, and hydration. But the day after tomorrow we were scheduled to fly home. It was a miracle that he had survived the three hour car ride. How would he ever survive air travel halfway around the world? That wasn't much time to recover.  If he was still sick, it would be up to me to try to change our flights and get us home again. I tried to push this thought out of my head as it was too overwhelming. Luckily I was sure that Cuong would help me in any way he possibly could.

We looked at the room service  menu and picked out a couple of items for Craig to try. In 20 minutes, it arrived on a nice tray. For Craig, we had ordered a nice bowl of chicken pho and a toasted ham and cheese sandwich. I went for comfort food: spaghetti bolognaise with garlic toast. We also got two big bottles of cold water, and I got a Coke. I used the nice cold water to mix up a packet of Gatorade for Craig. He was so dehydrated that he swilled half the bottle. That probably wasn't the best idea, given that he had so little in his system from the past 12 hours. He tried the pho and then proceeded to vomit 5 times in rapid succession. We suspect that it was from drinking too fast. He was determined to keep something down, and he tried the open-faced toasted ham and cheese sandwich. He had better luck with that. Over time he ate the whole sandwich. We also decided that he should continue his course of antibiotics, just to be safe, so we gave him his daily dose.
Our room at the Metropole Hotel
Room service at the Metropole Hotel
We were both still exhausted, so we napped for around 2 hours, waking up at around 6 p.m.  Craig went to the bathroom, and though his system still wasn't perfect, he had managed to keep his food down.  While Craig was in the shower, a man came to turn down our room and bring us our nightly French pastry treat. Craig was thrilled with the unlimited hot water and the water pressure.

I called Cuong to give him an update, but there was no answer. He immediately called me back. He was thrilled to hear some positive news and told us that he would meet us at breakfast tomorrow morning and we would play it by ear from there. He wished us a good sleep. Craig went to bed at around 8 o'clock. I stayed up a bit longer, getting the journal up to date.

The next morning, Craig was feeling even better. We woke up at 6:30, took showers, and headed down to breakfast at 8 o'clock. We stopped in at Spices Garden. If Nhung was working the breakfast shift, we would eat at her restaurant today. We asked the hostess is Madame Nhung was here. The hostess got a worried look and asked if everything was alright. We smiled and said that we were her husband's clients, and that we had just wanted to say hello. She was relieved that we weren;t looking for the manager with a complaint. She told us that Madame Nhung had the day off today. We thanked her and headed over to La Beaulieu for breakfast.

We had a delightful breakfast of fresh fruit, homemade yogurt, fresh-baked baguettes, flan, cheese, bacon and sausage, banana bread, dumplings, fresh orange juice, and coffee. Craig had regained his appetite and enjoyed it all, though he stayed away from anything greasy.

Cuong came in and found us at 9 o'clock. He had called our room this morning and got no answer. He thought that was a good sign that we were up and about, so he had breakfast at home with Nhung and then came over. When he walked into the restaurant and saw Craig at the breakfast table, he was absolutely beaming. It was obvious that he had been quite worried and was so relieved. He had some coffee and orange juice with us, and said that we should probably take it easy today. He would pick us up at 5:30 p.m. to go to his house for dinner. That sounded great to us.

We finished up our breakfast and decided to take a little walk. It was a beautiful sunny Sunday, and we had yet to explore the area around the hotel on foot. We walked around the block and were amazed at the number of bridal parties who were getting their pictures taken outside the hotel. We saw at least a dozen. Cyclo drivers tried to get our attention, offering us a ride around the city. We said no thank you, and tried to convey that we had already been on a cyclo ride.

We loved the hustle and bustle of the city. As we walked past parks, we saw more bridal parties getting their photos taken. We passed a plaza with a statue of  Lý Thái Tổ, who is known for relocating the imperial capital from Hoa Lư to Thăng Long (modern day Hà Ná»™i) in 1010 A.D. Families were rollerblading along the plaza near the statue.

We walked down to Hoan Kiem lake. The lake is known as the Lake of the Restored Sword because an ancient turtle is said to have presented King Le Thai To a magic sword in the 15th century which helped him to win a 10-year war against the Chinese. After his victory, he returned the sword to the
turtle. Cuong had told us that a large, old turtle lives in the lake to this day, and that he had photographed it.

People were out on their motorbikes and cars. We saw golf carts full of people taking a scenic tour of the city. A group of young Vietnamese men said hello to us and asked us where we were from. The sun was very hot and we were quite thirsty. We stopped at a little souvenir stand to buy Fantas for $1 each. We walked along the lake front down towards the iconic red Rising Sun Bridge, which we had seen on every travel television show filmed in Hanoi.

We passed some public art on display. One interesting piece depicted the earth being held up by two hands, with a white dove perched on top of the earth. Vietnam appeared oversized on the front of the globe. The statue was surrounded by topiaries shaped like dragons. Beautiful flowers were growing out of decorative tree stumps. An ambulance drove by, and Craig and I thought of how far we had come in the past 36 hours as we snatched a picture of it.

We were out during the hottest part of the day, and I felt like I was starting to overheat. Craig was finally getting his energy back,  but I was starting to feel dehydrated. My body was finally coming down from the state of manic hypervigilance that I had needed to maintain while Craig was sick. I had stayed mentally strong for him, but if I wasn't careful, I could succumb to dehydration as well. So we headed back to the hotel. I sat in the air conditioned lobby while Craig went a few doors down to buy two large water bottles at 50 cents each.



Bridal photos in front of the Metropole Hotel
Opera House

Lý Thái Tổ statue
Rising Sun Bridge

We came back to the room, made some Gatorades out of our new water bottles, packed, wrote a few more postcards, and mailed them at the front desk. My skirt got caught on something and ripped. I had planned to wear it to Cuong's house for dinner tonight. Craig remembered having seen a sewing kit in the bathroom along with the other myriad of amenities. I opened the sewing kit to find that all of the needles were even pre-threaded! This hotel truly had everything you could possibly want. I quickly stitched up the rip in my skirt, happy that it would be able to make it through one last night.

At 5:15,we went down the the lobby. Cuong arrived shortly before 5:30, and led us out to the car.
When Mr. Giang saw Craig up and about for the first time, he ran over to him with a huge smile and gave him a great big bear hug. We were very happy to learn that Mr. Giang would be joining us for dinner as well. Tonight would truly be a celebratory dinner, the perfect way to cap off the trip with friends who already seemed like family.

Mr. Giang drove us down the main road past the mosaic wall and down a perpendicular cul de sac to Cuong's house. It was a gorgeous tall, narrow house with three balconies overlooking the tree-lined street. It is in he heart of the city, but feels more rural. Nhung greeted us at the door and led us in for a cup of tea. Cuong presented us with a bag of goodies - a Vietnamese cookbook ("equal opportunity," Cuong said with a laugh), some tea and G7 3-in-1 coffee left over from the boat, and a stack of around 80 color prints of photos from our trip. We flipped through them together. He really is an amazing photographer, and it wass nice to be going home with physical prints that we could show people. There were a lot of great shots of Craig and I together, something that is usually lacking when one or the other of us is always the one behind the camera.

Cuong and Nhung's 14-year old son Phong arrived home and introduced himself. We had heard so much about him from Cuong over the course of the trip. It was so nice to finally get to meet him. We were called upstairs for dinner. Nhung gave Craig a Ha Noi beer in a festive can decorated for Tet. The can had an old-school pull tab that we haven't had in the U.S. for about 30 years.

More and more food was delivered to the table: beef and noodles, spring rolls, noodle salad, beef jerky,  chicken with broth and mushrooms, and greens. It was absolutely delicious! Craig fully had his appetite back, and was able to enjoy every bite. Mr. Giang had brought the leftover rice wine from the boat. Nhung poured it from a plastic yellow gas can into a decanter and we all toasted, "Chuc suc khoe!"

Cuong and Nhung's elder son Kien arrived fresh from winning a soccer match and joined us at the table. It was nice to meet him as well. He had planned to bring his wife and baby daughter, but the baby was teething and running a fever. A family friend nicknamed Andy arrived. He had gone to school in the Boston area, living with a host family in Roslindale. We discussed the possibility of Phong coming to the U.S. to study. He is a good student and his English is fantastic. Who knows what the future may bring?

The rice wine was flowing, and the whole family kept saying that the only time Cuong drinks like this is when he is with his brothers-in-arms from the war. Cuong said it just proved that we had bonded, like family. We showed them our photos we had brought from home. We showed them our house and our families, which we hope that one day they will be able to visit and meet in person. We had very lively conversation and many laughs. We truly felt like we were kindred spirits with Cuong's family, and we took many photos to commemorate our farewell dinner.

At 8 o'clock, Mr. Giang drove us home, and Kien went along for the ride. He accompanied us into the lobby and made sure that we safely got into the elevator. He was very sweet. When we arrived at our room, the turndown service had already been completed. Our bedtime pastry was different tonight; it resembled a toasted marshmallow. As usual, it was delicious. We laid out our clothes for tomorrow and finished getting everything packed for our long journey home.

Cuong's house
Cuong, Phong, Mr. Giang, Andy, Nhung, Steph, and Craig
Craig, Cuong, Phong, Kien, Steph, Nhung
Mr. Giang, Cuong, and Steph
Kien, Cuong, Craig, Steph, Nhung, Phong
The next morning, we woke up at 6:30 a.m. and took what we expected to be our last glorious showers for the next 2 days. At 8 o'clock, we headed down to breakfast. We lingered over one last breakfast in this exquisite hotel.

We met Cuong in the lobby shortly after 9:30. We loaded our bags into Mr. Giang's Toyota Innova for the last time, and we headed to the airport. We passed the now-familiar mosaic which we now knew was not far from Cuong's house.

When we got to the airport, we said goodbye to Mr. Giang. Cuong accompanied us into the airport and guided us through check-in. We checked our duffel bags the entire way through to Boston, keeping only our small carry-ons and a bag of souvenirs. Cuong walked us up to security and we said our goodbyes. It had been a wonderful trip and it was sad to leave.


A last look at the mural celebrating Hanoi's millennial
After going through security, we sat in the large cavernous waiting area. There were many little shops selling reasonably-priced souvenirs, and we bought several last-minute items. Our flight was 15 minutes late arriving, so we took off at 1:15 rather than our scheduled 1:00.  It was very hot on the plane, and the only complaint that we have against Singapore Airlines is that their planes do not have individual air vents at each seat. It was very stuffy.

We arrived at Changi Airport in Singapore at 5:30 p.m. As we approached the runway, we could see
numerous container ships in various states of full-ness off the coast. It was impressive and lived up to its reputation as a shipping hub. When we got off the plane, we found ourselves in a terminal decorated with many beautiful orchids/

We took the sky Train to Terminal 3. Our flight wasn't until 11:45, so we had a lot of time to kill. This airport is known as one of the best in the world for its amenities, including movie theaters and even a swimming pool. Earlier in the day they run a city tour. Though the airport is massive, there are many nooks where you can relax and not feel overwhelmed by crowds. We found some comfy chairs in front of a high-def TV that was showing the National Geographic Channel. We settled in to watch some shows. Craig got us each an ice cold 7-Up. Nearby was a koi pond with some of the biggest koi we had ever seen. On my way to the ladies room I even passed a door leading to a butterfly farm. The bathrooms themselves were immaculately clean. Attendants were constantly cleaning and shining things, and each restroom had a touchscreen app where you could rate its cleanliness.

One at a time we each took a turn in a chair that massages your feet and calves. It was a free, 15-minute foot and lower leg massage. Our next flight would last 14 hours, so we wanted to be as loosened up as possible.

Comfy chairs at Changi Airport, Singapore

At 10:30,  our gate was announced and we headed to A2. We went through security and waited to board our flight. The gate was full of British rowers who were wearing their London Olympics jackets. We boarded the flight and wound up sitting next to a very unfriendly woman.

The flight attendants passed out the menus to let us know what our food options would be throughout the flight. It was very hot on the plane. The woman next to me was covered head to toe with a blanket. I don't know how she could stand it. When we got up to use the restroom, we could feel cooler air movement elsewhere in the plane. Is there an upgrade fee we could pay to get some of that?

We had a nice pork piccatta with spaghetti for dinner and then tried to get some sleep. Craig was feeling a bit dehydrated and woke up at one point to ask the flight attendant for an additional cranberry juice. Before we knew it, several hours had passed. When we woke up, the flight attendant appeared with a can of cranberry juice. She apologized, saying that she had just remembered it. We all had a good laugh. At least she eventually remembered. And we had been sleeping anyway.

In the morning, we watched The Love Market (Le Marché de L'amour) again. We had watched this documentary about the ethnic minorities in Northern Vietnam on our flight to Hanoi two weeks ago, but it was amazing how much more we were able to absorb it now. We recognized the Sa Pa market and Catholic church. We recognized the Red Dao and Black Hmong interviewees by their style of dress. We now had context in which to place this information.

We were served eggs for breakfast, and after what seemed like an infinite flight, we landed at 5:55 a.m. at Heathrow, London. We went to the Virgin Atlantic counter and waited for them to open at 7:15. They had been unable to assign us seats for this flight upon check in with Singapore Airlines in Hanoi or Singapore, so we needed to see an agent here to get seats for our transatlantic flight.

After getting our seats, we made our way to Terminal 3. We saw signs for No. 1 Lounge Bedroom and Spas, and decided that we would check it out. We had a 9-hour layover, so we asked about the availability of a bedroom with a private bath. The woman told us that she could book us into a double room for a minimum of 3 hours. We did some mental math and booked it for 5 hours.

We went down a little hallway and found ourselves in room # 11, a very small room with bunk beds, fridge, and TV.  Our private bathroom had towels, body wash, shampoo, etc. After 14 hours on a plane, it felt great to take a nice shower and lay down on the bunkbeds , stretching our cramped legs out under a fluffy white duvet.

After a nice rest, we went out to the lounge. There was a complimentary breakfast buffet which we enjoyed in comfortable chairs with a view of planes taking off. Kids played in a game room (which had foosball as well as computer games), and there was also a movie room. Free wi-fi was available, as well as free newspapers and magazines. Our bedroom had come with full lounge access, but it is also possible to buy lounge access separately.

We checked out at 12:15. It was worth every penny to have been able to freshen up and rest in a quiet, non-crowded atmosphere. We would definitely keep this in mind for future trips.
We went out to the bullpen and people-watched until 1:45 p.m., when our gate was announced. We got singled out for an extra security check, at boarding time, but it wasn't a big deal.

Room 11 at the No. 1 Lounge,  Heathrow
We took off at 3:25 p.m. We were in a row of 2, so we didn't need to worry about disturbing anyone when we needed to use the rest room. We were once again given menus for the several meals we would have on this flight. We watched Crossfire Hurricane, a documentary about the early days of the Rolling Stones. Craig got mincemeat pie and I had an aubergine bake for lunch. It was quite good.

The flight was starting to make me sleepy, so I took a nap. Craig listened to Ten Years After on the iPod (Alvin Lee having recently passed away). We were served coffee, followed by a cheese and onion sandwich, and a cupcake.

We landed shortly after 6 p.m. We went through immigration and for some reason were singled out as having brought food products that needed to be checked. The customs officer asked what food we had. We said that we had no food with us.  He waved us through.

We picked up our luggage and called Craig's brother Steve to come pick us up. We bought drinks at Dunkin Donuts and then headed out to the refreshingly cool 50 degree weather, enjoying the sunset while waiting for Steve arrive.
Sunset at Logan Airport, Boston
Postscript:

When we got home, we inquired with Toni at Myths and Mountains to find out who had paid for the hospital charges.  We had purchased trip insurance, so there was no need for the tour company to be responsible for the cost. Toni was able to get us the hospital receipts easily. The ambulance ride turned out to have only cost $24. The remainder of the hospital fees (for IV, eeg, ultrasound, and the private overnight room) cost $249. We were amazed at the affordability, and our trip insurer covered the whole cost, as well as the unscheduled additional night at the Metropole. The entire process was very straightforward, and we were very happy with Myths and Mountains' recommended insurer.