Saturday, July 25, 2009

La Aurora Zoo, Guatemala City


La Aurora National Zoo


On our last day in Guatemala, the whole family (Humberto and Paulina with children Vanesa, Paola, Yasmin, Yoselin, Aracely and Eddy, Humberto's sister Juana and her daughter Rocio, and Humberto's mother) accompanied us to Guatemala City. La Aurora Zoo is right next door to the airport, and Humberto had come up with the idea that we could all go to the zoo together before our flight. The kids had never been to the zoo before and they were quite excited about it.


Arrival at the Zoo


Craig and I woke up at 5 o'clock to shower pack all of our things. Shortly after 6, we headed over to the house to find everyone up, dressed, and finishing up breakfast. Humberto gave the kids motion sickness medication, but Aracely refused to take the pill. Yasmin found a mariquita (ladybug) and gave it to us as a present, and we tried to explain that mariquitas aren't allowed on planes to the United States.


Rocio and Eddy


The van arrived at 6:30, and we met Enoch the driver. We all got situated in the van and were on the road by 6:45. We had some gorgeous views of Lake Atitlan on our way out of Panajachel. As the roads got more windy, Aracely got sick, but Paola handled it quite well and took care of her. Paulina handed a sleeping Eddy off to Juana, and held Aracely on her lap for the rest of the ride.


Eddy, Paulina, and Paola look at the zebra and giraffes


It was certainly a more enjoyable ride to Guatemala City when we were accompanied by everyone! Eddy was sitting right behind me on Juana's lap, and when he woke up we never even knew it because he was so quiet. He removed the ashtray from the back of my seat and held it, studying it carefully. We all laughed...he's a smart little guy with great fine motor skills! Then he started to play with the seatbelts.

Before we knew it, we were on the outskirts of Guatamala City and we stopped at a mirador (lookout point) which ordinarily has a view of the city, but today clouds impeded the view. We got back into the car and continued to the zoo, arriving at 9:30.


Yasmin in front of the giraffe exhibit


While Humberto purchased the tickets, Aracely was bouncing up and down with excitement. This outing was originally supposed to have taken place on the Tuesday that we arrived, but our late plane and rainy weather had forced a postponement.

The zoo was very clean and well-maintained, and the habitats were modern and as close as possible to the natural habitat of the animals. At the entrance, there was a large amphitheater, and a place where you could pay to have a photo taken. We noticed that the zoo rents out digital cameras - what a great idea in this day and age of digital photography. Rent a camera, burn the photos to a CD, and voila!


Juana and Eddy


We knew we only had an hour before Craig and I would have to take our leave, so I snapped photos like a madwoman as we walked around the zoo. Paola was taking photos with Humberto's camera. Eddy was wide awake and enjoyed looking at everything. The girls didn't seem to know what to do next and they hurried from one exhibit to the next. Paulina had packed them some snack mix, and they munched on it as we wandered around.

The first exhibit was an African habitat which housed zebras and giraffes. The two giraffes were inside a very tall building with a thatched roof. It was dark inside and you could only vaguely see them through the doors. Across from this exhibit was a meerkat colony surrounded by plexiglass so that you could see them from all angles. The girls happily watched them as one dug a hole while another sought higher ground in sentinel stance.


Aracely


Rocio stuck by Craig and I the entire time. I think she realized that we would be gone soon, and wanted to spend as much time with us as possible. It was very sweet. She knew I was taking pictures and would always direct my attention to the next interesting subject.


Yoselin in front of the peacocks


We saw two enormous hippos on the perimeter of their habitat which included a pond and lots of mud for wallowing. Next was an enclosure with green grass, goats, and birds such as peacocks ("traditional" as well as an entirely white variety), and ostriches.

Next was an African-looking enclosure with a tribal-looking building and some termite mounds that were so enormously tall that they had to be fake. Water buffalo were milling around. Next door was an enclosure filled with boulders, grass, and "ruiins" of buildings. A lioness laid lazily on a horizontal tree trunk while a male and another female laid in her shade on the grass.


Aracely, Humberto, and Abuelita


There was an Australian habitat which contained wallabies and emus, and next to that was a caged bird area containing parakeets and love birds. We got a great view of an Asian elephant and noticed just how much smaller his ears were than an African elephant's. Aracely rode on Humberto's shoulders for a while, and Juana carried Eddy.

We arrived at the brown bear enclosure and peeked through the plexiglass and couldn't see a bear anywhere. Then we looked down and realized that he was sleeping right in front of us, so close that we almost couldn't see him. We walked around the corner to have a better view.


Water buffalo


We saw a sign for a "binturong" next to an empty enclosure. From the photo it seemed to be some kind of otter / fisher cat sort of thing. Next it was on to the monkeys: Japanese macaques. "Mono!" the girls cheered excitedly. Next we saw a turtle enclosure. From our vantagepoint we could look down on the turtle pond. Two tigers cuddled in the shade in an enclosure decorated to look rather like Angkor Watt.



Lion



We went inside a dark building to see such things as crocodile eggs, snakes, and nocturnal animals. We had to peer through little portholes to see them. Back outside, we saw rhesus monkeys, and a gorgeous jaguar resting under a large tree. Spider monkeys were quite playful, although these are old hat for the girls, as there are resident spider monkeys in the nature preserve in Panajachel.



Craig


We also saw monitor lizards, llamas, and foxes. Somehow we had managed to get a cursory look at every exhibit in the hour that we were there. It was now 10:30 and we realized that we had to get to the airport. Humberto gathered the family together and we all said our goodbyes. It is always difficult to say goodbye - we enjoy our time with them so much. We gave everyone hugs and kisses...and they each handled it in a unique fashion. Yoselin was clingy and seemed sad, like she didn't want to let go. Yasmin was all about denial - both Craig and I had hugged and kissed everyone except her...it was as if she thought that if she didn't acknowledge us, we wouldn't go. But we each gave her a big hug and a kiss. I asked if I could get one photo of the entire family before we left, and they all huddled together for a perfect photo. Everyone was looking (even Eddy). Sure, Paola and Yasmin look rather sad, but it was a bittesweet moment.


Asian Elephant


As Humberto walked us back to the van, we looked back at the family and wiped away a tear. We were glad that they would be able to stay at the zoo for as long as they wanted - it would help to distract them from feeling sad. As we walked to the exit, we realized how much more crowded it had gotten. We were lucky that we had been able to see every exhibit without a large crowd - especially those where you had to peek through a porthole.


Juana and Eddy


We said goodbye to Humberto and then Enoch drove us around the corner to the airport. When he got our bags out of the back of the van, we noticed the ladybug from this morning had stowed a ride on our bags. We got a good chuckle out of that and placed him on the sidewalk. He was a long way from his home in Panajachel!


Vanesa



Brown bear



Rocio in front of the brown bears



Steph



Aracely and Rocio



Lookin' at the turtles



Paola takes some photos




The family watches the tigers



Tigers



Paulina, Yoselin, Aracely, Yasmin, Paola, Vanesa, Rocio, Juana, Abuelita, Humberto, & Eddy at La Aurora Zoo

Saturday, July 11, 2009

4th of July in Guatemala


Paulina, Yoselin, Aracely, Yasmin, Paola, Vanesa, Rocio, Juana, Abuelita, Humberto, & Eddy at La Aurora Zoo


For the third year in a row, we spent our 4th of July holiday with our “family” in Guatemala. After a couple of highly stressful flights (circumstances conspired to bring us within 10 minutes of missing our connecting flight in Miami – which would have meant we would have had to wait until the next day for the next available flight), we arrived in Guatemala City 2 hours late. Humberto, Paulina, their six children (Vanesa, Paola, Yasmin, Yoselin, our godchild Aracely, and baby Eddy), Humberto’s mother, Humberto’s sister Juana, and her daughter Rocio took the three hour drive from Panajachel into Guatemala City to meet us.


Family lunch at Pollo Campero


This was the kids’ first trip to Guatemala City, and it was very exciting for them. Prior to picking us up, they had gone to the commercial center of the city, where they were impressed by the skyscrapers, and the kids and Humberto’s mother got to ride escalators for the first time. The kids poured out of the van to give us hugs and kisses. We hadn’t seen them in a year, and that was way too long. Aracely was no longer a toddler; she was now a little girl who talked much more than she had previously. And we got to finally meet 8-month-old baby Eddy, whom we had previously seen only in pictures.


Eddy looks at the world through rose-colored glasses


We hopped into the van and Aracely sat in my lap. Baby Eddy was very happy and friendly. All of the girls were very excited. We went to Pollo Campero for lunch, a very popular fast food fried chicken franchise. It was raining when we arrived, and the staff met us at the van with large umbrellas and escorted us to the door of the restaurant. Now that’s service! We enjoyed our chicken lunch.


Birthday boy Humberto at Pollo Campero


It was Humberto’s birthday, and we got him to wear a paper Pollito Campero crown (much like the crowns Burger King used to give out to kids). The restaurant was full of families and had an indoor play area which the girls utilized after they were done eating.


Aracely, Craig, & Yoselin


Humberto had planned for us to all visit the zoo, but the rain persisted after lunch. The kids were disappointed, but took the news quite gracefully. We drove back to Panajachel in the rain, and the girls slept most of the way. When we got back to the house, we toasted Humberto’s birthday and played with the girls. It was so nice to be with them again. They are so loving, and we always had at least one of them giving us a hug or sitting on our laps.


Yoselin, Craig, Steph, & Eddy


Baby Eddy was an absolute joy – very happy, no stranger anxiety, etc. He would talk (“ba ba ba!!”) and sing to himself, smiling at everyone. He’s very strong, and we predict that he will be walking very soon. He also has excellent fine motor skills, and can manipulate things very adeptly with his hands. He is probably the best-behaved baby we have ever encountered. Several weeks before our trip, Humberto surprised us by asking us to be Eddy’s godparents as well, and we are honored. We were so happy to get to meet him!


Aracely and Craig


Over the next few days we enjoyed the day-to-day routine of life in Panajachel. The older girls went to school, and we would go to the market with Paulina, Eddy, and Aracely. Paulina prepared delicious fresh meals for us. We walked with Humberto, Paola, Eddy, and Aracely around the corner to Lake Atitlan and enjoyed the view of the gorgeous crater lake surrounded by volcanoes. We taught the girls how to play Uno, and that provided hours of family fun. I was able to practice my Spanish with the kids, and while I still have quite a ways to go, there was definitely an improvement since our last visit. The girls will be starting English classes soon, so little by little our communication is improving. But we are always able to communicate via laughter, smiles, and hugs.


Lake Atitlan


Humberto surprised us again by saying that the whole family (grandmother, Juana, and Rocio included) would go with us to Guatemala City to see us off on Sunday. We left the house bright and early to try to make it to the Aurora National Zoo before we needed to be at the airport. We arrived at the zoo at around 9:30. Luckily, the airport was right next door to the zoo, so we were able to spend a good hour at the zoo before taking the short drive to the airport. Aracely was literally jumping up and down with excitement as Humberto bought the zoo tickets and we entered the turnstile. The zoo was quite nice, with pleasantly designed animal habitats. We saw elephants, bears, monkeys, kangaroos, giraffes, meerkats, lions, tigers, a jaguar, hippos, zebras, buffalo, and many other animals. We were there early enough to beat the crowds, so we were able to see everything we wanted to. Rocio stuck to us like glue, knowing that we would soon be leaving. At 10:30, we said our goodbyes to the family. It is always hard to say goodbye – we love the kids so much and wish that we could spend even more time with them. But this was a good way to do it, as the kids could continue to have fun at the zoo while the van driver took us the short distance to the airport. We got an excellent group portrait of the family right before we walked to the van.

We look forward to returning for Eddy’s christening, which will most likely take place in January.


Aracely strikes a pose



Rocio, Steph, Yoselin, and Craig



Yoselin, Craig, & Steph



Humberto & Eddy



Craig takes Eddy for a walk



Steph & Paola at Pollo Campero



Steph & Eddy



Vanesa going to school



Aracely



Craig, Rocio, & Steph



Craig, Paola, & Yasmin



Yasmin

Sunday, June 28, 2009

In Loving Memory of Nanie


Nanie (1916 - 2009)


Craig's grandmother passed away on Thursday evening, 2 weeks before her 93rd birthday. She will be dearly missed. Anyone who knew her loved her. At 4 foot 9, she was always Craig's little grandmother. She was born prematurely and the doctor did not think that she would survive. But her parents wrapped her in a towel, laid her in a shoebox, and put it on the radiator to keep her warm. They never gave up on her, and she thrived.

She took Craig and his brother Steve on some of their first travels, to Florida (Disney World), Niagara Falls, and throughout New England. Craig remembers that when he was little, she came back from a trip and gave him some coins from Barbados. He was very intrigued and brought them to school for show and tell.

Nanie always loved to hear about our travels, and we have sent her postcards from Easter Island, Bhutan, and Timbuktu among other places. She collected dolls, and we would always bring her back a doll from our trips.

We miss her very much, but we are glad that she is now reunited with Craig's Grampie.

Tuesday, May 26, 2009

Chicago: Blues and Public Art


Buddy Guy's Legends


I found that over Memorial Day weekend, there were some good deals on flights and hotels in Chicago. When we found out that David "Honeyboy" Edwards would be playing at Buddy Guy's Legends on Saturday night, that sealed the deal and we planned the trip.

We arrived on Friday night and went to the Clark Street Ale House for some drinks. On Saturday we spent the day enjoying the gorgeous sunny weather. We ate our favorite stuffed pizza at Giordano's for lunch (we remembered to order the small this time). Then we wandered around, enjoying looking at the downtown architecture and some interesting public art in Pioneer Court (next to the Chicago Tribune building and across the street from the Wrigley Building).


God Bless America by J. Seward Johnson


We were startled to find a 25-foot tall 3-dimensional representation of the couple in the “American Gothic” painting. This statue is entitled “God Bless America” and was created by J. Seward Johnson (heir to the Johnson & Johnson fortune), and it depicts the couple as larger than life, with a suitcase at their feet. The actual “American Gothic” painting is in the permanent collection of the Art Institute of Chicago, several blocks south. It was very surreal to see this rural couple gazing at the big city skyline. Also in Pioneer Court is a statue of a moose made of chrome car bumpers by artist John Kearney.

After that we went to the Jazz Record Mart to check out their incredible blues selection. We could spend all day browsing in there.


Jimmy Johnson


In the evening we got a cab to Buddy Guy's Legends. Our cabbie didn't know where it was, and the hotel doorman was disgusted. "It's WORLD FAMOUS!" he said. "On 8th and Wabash!" We arrived there during a free acoustic set by Jimmy Johnson. He was very enjoyable. After his second set, we ordered food (I got the Cajun meatloaf sandwich with sausage gravy and garlic mashed potatoes, and Craig got a catfish Po'Boy with fries).


David "Honeyboy" Edwards plays with Devil in a Woodpile


Then Devil in a Woodpile came onstage and did a wonderful old-timey blues set. They had a guitarist, an upright bass player, and a washboard percussionist who also played the clarinet. His voice reminded us of the lead singer from Squirrel Nut Zippers. They did a nice half hour set including Charley Patton's "Shake it and Break It", which was a definite highlight. They were then joined by Honeyboy. We had seen him play at Regattabar in 2006. Now he is 93 years old (his 94th birthday is a month away) and still performs - amazing!! He was friends with Robert Johnson, and is one of the few original Delta bluesmen left.

He was excellent. Playing with the band seemed to energize him. He slapped his guitar and played with a Son House twang, and he can really use a slide. We were mesmerized. After his nearly hour-long set, we got to say hello. We had brought our copy of his autobiography with us, and he signed it for us. He also kindly allowed me to take a photo. When his second set was over, we said goodnight and thanked him for a wonderful evening.


David "Honeyboy" Edwards


Then Charlie Love and his Silky Smooth Blues Band took the stage. He played Chicago blues and was a fun and entertaining showman. He sang and played guitar, and we really enjoyed ourselves. In between his two sets, we bought his CD and had a nice chat with him. He was very friendly and told us that we should come to see him play at Kingston Mines the following night. He then played a second set during which he danced with delighted women in the audience, and finished off his second set by wandering the room playing his harp.


Steph with Charlie Love


Legends was a very nice club. There was a display case showcasing Buddy's awards (Grammy's, Handy's, etc.), and there was memorabilia from many blues players displayed on the walls. Hhighlights for us included a Stevie Ray Vaughan guitar, an autographed Clarence Gatemouth Brown guitar, an autographed picture of Johnny Clyde Copeland, and some tickets and backstage passes from when Eric Clapton played a date on his Nothing but the Blues Tour at Legends. (Wow!)


Buddy Guy's Awards


On Sunday we walked to Oak Street Beach on Lake Michigan. Then we walked down the Magnificent Mile and went into a very cool Lego store. We spent quite a while looking at all the Lego sculptures. The employees were really friendly - it was like we were at Disney World. Other than the Jazz Record Mart, it was our only shopping of the trip, as we learned that our favorite Chicago store (the Rand McNally Store) was no longer there. Also absent from Michigan Ave was Garrett's Popcorn, where people used to wait in insanely long lines to buy their fresh delicious buttery caramel corn.


Craig at the Cloud Gate


We had toyed with the idea of taking an architecture cruise, but the timing didn't work out right. We walked to Millennium Park to view the public art displays. We were mesmerized by the Cloud Gate. It's really difficult to explain, so I will quote directly from the Millenium Park web site:

"Cloud Gate is British artist Anish Kapoor's first public outdoor work installed in the United States. The 110-ton elliptical sculpture is forged of a seamless series of highly polished stainless steel plates, which reflect the city's famous skyline and the clouds above. A 12-foot-high arch provides a "gate" to the concave chamber beneath the sculpture, inviting visitors to touch its mirror-like surface and see their image reflected back from a variety of perspectives. Inspired by liquid mercury, the sculpture is among the largest of its kind in the world, measuring 66-feet long by 33-feet high."



Where's Waldo? Reflections in the Cloud Gate


It is just amazing. Its elliptical shape reflects the buildings around the park such that buildings which are on perpendicular streets appear to be side-by-side. It reflects an imaginary skyline. Because of its contours, objects are reflected many times, and as you watch people move, a single reflection will split, as if by mitosis, into two. We entered the "gate" and once we were underneath the structure, it got even more amazing. Craig suggested that I try a photo with a flash to see if the light reflected strangely. The resulting image was very cool, with the single flash reflected 35 separate times. It was like a game of Where's Waldo to try to find your own image amidst the reflections. People of all ages were admiring the statue. Craig overheard a man say "If only the artist knew how much joy he was bringing to all of these people." Indeed.


View from under the Cloud Gate


While we were inside the chamber beneath the sculpture, a street performer dressed as Heath Ledger's Joker was running around. It was incredibly surreal to see him reflected everywhere you looked. I must admit that my childhood fear of clowns kicked in and I was a little wary of getting too close too him.

By now it was mid-afternoon and we were getting hungry. There was still more of the park that we wanted to explore, so we ate on-site at the Plaza at Park Grill. After a short wait we were shown to an al fresco table with an umbrella. Craig got a 10 oz kobe burger with gorgonzola cheese, and I had a Cajun chicken sandwich. We had a laid-back, delicious lunch while people-watching.


Southern tower of the Crown Fountain


After lunch we went to see the Crown Fountain, another very interesting art installation in the park. It consists of two 50-foot tall towers of glass block on opposite ends of a plaza. Water runs down each of the four sides of each tower creating a man-made waterfall, and the amount of water and rate of flow vary. Faces of Chicago citizens are projected larger than life on LED screens on the front of each tower. At first you may think that they are photographs, but as you watch, the faces blink and change expression. Then all of a sudden, the faces purse their lips and a stream of water shoots out of their mouths. It is very unique and unexpected. The runoff from the fountains is collected on the ground in a reflecting pool which is only about half an inch deep, and is then recycled through the fountain. Despite the chilly wind, children were walking through the reflecting pool and standing under the shower of water emanating from the fountains. The Crown Fountain was designed by Spanish artist Jaume Plensa.

We walked across the newly opened Nichols footbridge to the Art Institute, and then headed back to the Cloud Gate. The wind was very chilly, and I realized it had been rather ambitious of me to wear shorts and a tank top today, despite the warm sun. We admired the Cloud Gate from all angles. We had hoped that we would get to see it at sunset, but we couldn’t hold out that long in the chilly wind.


Clark Street Ale House


We then headed back to the room and put on some warmer clothes. We were tempted to go to Kingston Mines to see Charlie Love perform again, but neither of us had the energy for another night at a club. Also, we needed to get to the airport early in the morning, and had a sneaking suspicion that if we went to Kingston Mines, we wouldn’t get back to the hotel until much too late. So instead we walked around in search of a place to enjoy dinner. Craig suggested Carson’s (“The Place for Ribs”), where we had eaten on our first trip to Chicago. It was an excellent choice. We each got a half rack of baby back ribs and we split a pork chop. The meat was absolutely delicious and their bbq sauce had a delightful zing. They gave us each a mountain of cole slaw. Craig had a twice baked potato and I had sweet potato fries sprinkled with cinnamon and sugar. Yum!

After dinner (we were the last ones out of the restaurant and they turned off their sign just as I was getting a photo of it) we headed to the Clark Street Ale House for a nightcap.

We flew home the next morning, and I was delighted to be able to buy some Garrett's popcorn at the airport.